Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Duchess Left

5.6, Trad, 40 ft,  Avg: 1.4 from 38 votes
FA: unknown
California > Joshua Tree NP > Indian Cove > Indian Cove Cam… > Feudal Wall > Feudal Wall (Left Side)

Description

Duchess Left is the easiest and least interesting of the three Duchess climbs. That said, it does have a fun, bouldery start, and a couple of interesting moves over a small bulge before it merges into Duchess near the top. Hell, the approach is 10 seconds. While you're here, why not climb it?

Duchess Left is the left side of the alcove right in front of the picnic table

Protection

Standard rack. Long slings for belay. A well-placed anchor will allow you to TR this, Duchess, and Duchess Right.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nick stemming for higher ground above the crux.
[Hide Photo] Nick stemming for higher ground above the crux.
crux of the climb, getting over this boulder about 20' off the deck.
[Hide Photo] crux of the climb, getting over this boulder about 20' off the deck.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeffrey Davis
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Maybe my approach towards this climb was all wrong but I had a tough time getting over the slab. Jul 18, 2004
Blitzo
 
[Hide Comment] Pile! Sep 8, 2006
EmilyFox
Oakland, CA
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Maybe this used to be a 5.4 and some holds have broken off? Felt more like a 5.6 to me. Jan 5, 2009
Brian B Ballard
Laramie, WY
[Hide Comment] Stiff for a 5.4. I finished with a slopey lieback around the upper section to miss upper duchess. Fun stuff. Apr 7, 2009
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
[Hide Comment] Junk, and harder than Duchess. Did it once, won't do it again. Dec 7, 2010
Climb To Safety
california
 
[Hide Comment] I agree it's junk , but its not harder than duchess, maybe a bit more awkward, but still pretty easy. Jan 31, 2013
matvey
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Definitely not a 5.4! More like 5.6-5.8 Jun 16, 2014
Erick Santos
Long Beach, CA
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Personally I enjoyed this climb contrary to other opinions on here. I comfortably stemmed from the beginning until at/over the crux. The rest in my group however all felt the opening moves were very awkward but with little stemming. Feb 12, 2018