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Routes in Billboard Buttress

Bilbo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack Alley V1-2 5
Driving Limitations T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gait of Power T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gait of Power Traverse V1 5
Knaug and Hyde T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Red Beckey (aka The Rabbi) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reverend, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sheet Bends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slip Silly (aka Forgotten Crack) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Squat Rockets T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
We Dive At Dawn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Chris Gonzalez and Rick Olsen, 1982
Page Views: 1,122 total, 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 26, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

Climb the crack to cruxy moves near the top where the crack pinches down and face moves lead to a ledge at the top. Good gear but you need to hang out a bit to get it in. Two stars out of five.

Location

Just right of The Reverend on the west face.

Protection

Gear to 3" (including wires)

Photos

Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
 
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
 
I agree with Brian but only on the upper part of the route. A fun .10a route. Have to be honest....I was starting to sketch because the pro up high was shallow and not that great (managed to sink in a #5 nut before nearly blowing off it.) Dec 3, 2007
Protection is really pretty good. Feb 7, 2004
Brian Reynolds
  5.10a
Brian Reynolds  
  5.10a
This deserves the s -- it was fun on toprope, but it would be a tough lead! It's a fun climb, with a nice combination of moves, and it's fairly sustained for the grade. Dec 16, 2003
Josh Beck  
 
Done too long ago to recall the particulars of difficulty but I hardly thought this was a decent route. Not a chosspile or anything, but not one I'd repeat. Nov 23, 2003
This is one of the finest 5.10A's in the park and should have three big stars. Or, if in the Vogel guide, five stars. Nov 18, 2003