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Routes in Billboard Buttress

Bilbo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack Alley V1-2 5
Driving Limitations T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gait of Power T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gait of Power Traverse V1 5
Knaug and Hyde T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Red Beckey (aka The Rabbi) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reverend, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sheet Bends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slip Silly (aka Forgotten Crack) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Squat Rockets T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
We Dive At Dawn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Louie Anderson and Mike Humphrey, April 1989
Page Views: 2,334 total · 12/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 26, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


73 Opinions

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Description

A very popular but average route up the plated face right off the road. The rating is accurate if you climb directly past the first bolt otherwise it's a bit easier.

Decent climbing on this but the rock is suspect throughout and the constant buzz of traffic detracts from the overall experience. One star out of five.

Location

Left side of the narrow south face.

Protection

3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (all 3/8").

Photos

George Bracksieck  
5.8- X
The three bolts should be replaced. The SMC hangers provide one clue to the bolts' age. To entertain my belayer, I unscrewed the already loose second nut, using my fingers, and removed the hanger. I replaced those and finger-tightened the nut. All three threaded studs fail to protrude beyond the nuts.

Inexperienced leaders may be clueless about bolt quality, and, even if a bolt doesn't fail, there are runouts from which a fall would result in severe injury and perhaps worse. This climb should be rated X. Jan 21, 2018
Mae Rae
 
Mae Rae  
 
I agree with Justin - "contrived" is the word for the start of this route. Climbing directly past the first bolt is *much* harder than 5.8 and a fall at this crux would possibly result in hitting the ledge below. Moving to the right is easier, but then you have to really go out of your way to not to climb on the large flake/ledge that is right there. Use the flake to get past the hard part and it is probably about 5.5 (although you'll feel like you are off route.)

Get past the confusing start and the rest is fun, but easy and runout. Feb 25, 2013
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
 
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
 
If you are calling this route 5.8 I say it is contrived. The natural line goes up good and easy holds making this a Jtree 5.5 .... except easier than Right On. Which I guess makes Right On harder than 5.5 or this easier than 5.5.

Go figure!

It should be bolted for the 5.5 leader and left at that! Nov 11, 2012
shelby beardslee
29 Palms, CA
 
shelby beardslee   29 Palms, CA
 
Anchors on top of this were replaced. The old chains were removed and brand new stainless rap-rings were installed courtesy of the ASCA. Part of on going project to improve the asthetics and safety of the bolts in the Indian Cove area. Jul 1, 2011
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.8+
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.8+
Direct start without kicking back behind you or taking the ramp is somewhat committing, bumping it to the "+" on the rating IMO. Mar 28, 2011
attila
5.7
attila  
5.7
The run-out section at the top is easy for the confident and experienced, but probably not a good route for a new leader. Jan 22, 2010
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.8-
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.8-
Not a bad route....the start on passing the 1st bolt is a bit contrived. If one starts on the left side (by Red Beckey) and heads straight to the bolt (leaving the top block on the right off) its pretty stiff for 5.8. But if one uses the block for the right foot, it seems more like 5.7 as one passes the first bolt. After that, its an OK climb. The runout is nothing since the holds are big and quite frequent. Skip the big knob and do it! Dec 3, 2007
Josh Hibbard
Los Angeles Area, CA
  5.7
Josh Hibbard   Los Angeles Area, CA
  5.7
This is a decent sport climb in Joshua Tree, where sport climbs are at a minimum. I felt like this was more of a 5.7. Mar 23, 2007
jacob
  5.8
jacob  
  5.8
Not a bad route, I found it very easy.... but it was hard for some other people that i met up with.

if your in the area might as well go for it after.. el chivo Jan 29, 2005
Brian Reynolds  
  5.8
The only way this is a 5.8 is if you climb straight up through the first bolt, in which case I thought it was a rather stiff 5.8. A lot of parties that I see climb it go around scramble up 3rd/4th class ramps to where they can clip the second bolt and move up from there. If you go that way, it's 5.6, 5.7 tops. It's still a good little climb, though. Dec 16, 2003
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
 
Decent climb for the grade placed right in the center of it all. If you don't mind the "Look Mommy, Mountain climbers!" (They never seem to get it right without explanation)it's worth a shot. I certainly suggest doing it on weekdays. But then I suggest all climbs on weekdays don't I? Dec 10, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
C'mon Chris! I'd call this one of the better of the few "sport climbs" in the area, for the grade anyway. I'll have to check out El Chivo next time for comparison. Dec 10, 2003
The exit sequence can be protected with a sling around a largish chickenhead towards the top of the route. It's not great, but better than nothing if you're not thrilled about the runout. Nov 4, 2002

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