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Routes in The Blob - Southeast Face

Buissonier T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Junior T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mama Woolsey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Papa Woolsey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pete's Handful T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wonderful World Of Art, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Mark and Beverly Powell, 1965
Page Views: 1,915 total · 10/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 20, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Interesting and delicate climbing that's the perfect compliment to Papa Woolsey with all of it's bolts. The hardest moves are at or near protection but it is a little runout. Two stars out of five.

Location

Just right of Papa Woolsey.

Protection

Gear to 3" including wires.

Photos

M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
For some small degree of security, you can cinch up the wire of a smaller size nut around a downward sloping old rivet right at the crux. Heads up: A fall here has very high ground fall potential. Jun 20, 2002
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Another name for this route was "Effigy", which gives some insight into the route name "Effigy Too". Nov 7, 2003
Donno
Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
Feels like 5.9 to me. Feb 20, 2004
Randy
  5.9+ R
Randy  
  5.9+ R
This route was actually first done in 1965 (not 1972) by Mark and Beverly Powell. Route was named for Beverly's Mom (Betty Woolsey) who was camping with the Powells that weekend. Feb 20, 2004
tony grice
  5.9 R
tony grice  
  5.9 R
Fun route, tick it if you like a little spice or TR it if you don't. Feb 13, 2006
ShaunG Gregg
SF, CA
ShaunG Gregg   SF, CA
Don't fall before the first bolt. That's it. Nov 26, 2009
Richard Shore
  5.10a
Richard Shore  
  5.10a
Not sure it warrants an R-rating with the right piece of gear (#0 tcu) placed up in the back of an old pin scar just before the crux. This will be just below your feet when making the crux move. It seemed like it would require way more effort to cinch the old stud from a tenuous stance than to simply make the move up to the good bolt, but YMMV. Good fun route. Dec 6, 2011
Matt Hagny
  5.9+ PG13
Matt Hagny  
  5.9+ PG13
I certainly didn't bother with cinching a stopper around the old bolts protruding -- you might as well stand up and clip the bolt at that point.

As to whether it's R or not depends on how good your teeny cams fit in the pin scars. Mine certainly wasn't bomber. A C3 or a small offset cam would've been better. Apr 20, 2018

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