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Continuum

5.8+, Trad, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 280 votes
FA: John Long, Mike Lechlinski & Mari Gingery, December 1978
California > Joshua Tree NP > Pinto Basin > Split Rocks > Split Rocks East > Future Games Rock
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Description

Very nice start, solid, and nice moves to the top of an "arrow head" where nice climbing encounters the crack. Jam, and enjoy good gear to an awkward right bending crack. Negotiate the crack with no foot holds the right with balance, and walk the ledge. Jam through the rest of the tough climbing and finish up near a wide horizontal crack, great for anchoring. 

Protection

Standard rack to 3".

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

60 year old, Phil Bircheff having fun on "Continuum".<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] 60 year old, Phil Bircheff having fun on "Continuum". Photo by Blitzo.
At the crux.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] At the crux. Photo by Blitzo.
The start of the sandbag ooof!
[Hide Photo] The start of the sandbag ooof!
Continuum. If you think the crux is down low, just be patient.
[Hide Photo] Continuum. If you think the crux is down low, just be patient.
Jared from Dallas starting up Continuum.
[Hide Photo] Jared from Dallas starting up Continuum.
Continuum (5.8+) runs the the right leaning dogleg crack, on the right side of the photo ©
[Hide Photo] Continuum (5.8+) runs the the right leaning dogleg crack, on the right side of the photo ©
Mike Morley on lower section of Continuum. Photo: Shana Lauer
[Hide Photo] Mike Morley on lower section of Continuum. Photo: Shana Lauer

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dynomight510
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Good pro from the start. The start involves face climbing on big holds to gain the right angling crack. The crack is hand size and varies a bit. It's a bit awkward to climb and reminds me of Illusion Dweller only easier. This route get shade in the afternoon.

Fun moves, good rock.

A few sustained sections Sep 29, 2003
Woody Stark
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] I warmed up on this today before leading Invisibilty Lessons. I should have reversed it. Mar 16, 2005
[Hide Comment] The book says that Future Games Rock is 1 mile from the parking lot. Not true, it is .4 miles. Oh, and the climb is great but quite a bit harder than Invisibility Lessons and I would agree that reversing these two climbs for warm-up practices would be wise. Oct 18, 2006
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Rating is accurate IMO, as long as you asssume the "+" means awkward. The anchor will take #3 camalots (a 3.5 would be better), as well as a small TCU (yellow or blue) and a hand sized cam. Route takes good gear at just about any spot. Small/med stoppers and a few 1.5"-3" cams should be plenty. People say this is harder than Invisibility Lessons, I disagree...it is more awkward but less strenous. BPJ is right, this is nowhere near a mile from the parking, it's about a 3 minute easy stroll. Nov 21, 2006
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
[Hide Comment] This route might actually be harder than Invisibility Lessons. Leany and a bit awkward but a must do for the area. Feb 23, 2007
Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] Had no problem with other 5.8s and 5.9s in the park this week, but WHAT THE HECK. This thing was such an awkward lead for me. I admit, I'm not proficient at angling crack climbs. Ate quite a bit of humble pie, as it took me about four or five hangs to get up this. Felt like I was just draging my legs up through that right hand turn.
Led Invisibility Lessons next...easily. Huh? Apr 16, 2007
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Not sure whether it's harder than Invisibility Lessons or not, but it is most definitely better. Continuum is a great line with fun moves. Mar 6, 2008
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] I led this after following Invisibility Lessons. I felt this climb was easier as opposed to other posters and also my partner. It was an awesome way to end a great trip. This climb met my expectations of being challenging yet comfortable for my level. The protection is great and the angle allows for less strenuous climbing than its neighbor. Each move was enjoyable bottom to top and I will be back for more. Mar 24, 2008
BrendanC
Sherman oaks, ca
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] I thought this was a great line. A little of everything. The first 15 feet looks harder than it is, but hanging around to get in a piece could be strenuous and actually make falling here more likely. I felt safer climbing directly to the top of the big flake, huge stance, and then you can throw in as much gear as you want. Yes the top section is awkward, however, there are some sinker jams and great pro. This is 5.8 because it's been 5.8 forever, but it's the hardest 5.8 that I've done in the park (kind of like Double Cross being 5.7 (?)).
Still, I felt it was slightly easier than Invis Lessons.
Another great 5.8 that feels like a 5.9 is Gem, do it! Mar 18, 2011
[Hide Comment] I don't know if the difficulty of this can be compared to invisibility lessons fairly, as they are very different climbs. This climb was awkward and a bit thrutchy at times. The hand jams were solid through the middle, but the feet were not. And when feet rocked the hands were thing. The only part that seemed harder than 5.8 may have been the last bit (from the ledge up).

Invisibility lesson was a very delicate climb imo, and a LOT more heady. Easier moves, but didn't afford as much desperateness Apr 11, 2011
Nate Manson
San Diego, CA
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] I have a peculiar discontent for awkward climbs. I don't even like looking at them, but for some reason I climbed this route. And i'm glad I did. After reading the comments on here I couldn't imagine what possessed me to do so. On an awkward scale from 1-10, i'd give it a 4. The "awkward" section was very straightforward and enjoyable. I found that this was slightly easier than its neighbor Invisibility Lessons(I liked Continuum more). But honestly, the two climbs couldn't be anymore different. The jams were all solid, the start was fun and secure. I'd say the technical crux was near the top as the climb drastically changed gears from a brute "awkward" jaunt to a somewhat delicate, thought-out sequence, loved it! 5.8+ for sure, but no harder... Mar 29, 2014
[Hide Comment] A super route. 3 tricky sections each different and thoughtful keep the whole long pitch engaging. The crack leans which is always kinda funky but allowed for some palms up. Protects solid although not ideal for a first 5.8 led given cruxy bits low and again off a ledge. That said, if you're comfortable leading 5.8 and 5.9 crack don't pass it by. High on my J-Tree list! Feb 17, 2015
Matt Hagny
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I found this to be much harder than Invisibility Lessons, and I was leading Invisibility Lessons, and following Continuum! Oct 27, 2016
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I did Invisibility Lessons prior to this, and believe IL is a tick more difficult, but Continuum felt more sustained and awkward due to the angle. A super fun climb though, and more enjoyable. Crux is probably the very start, protects great and positive jams or locks whenever you really need them. Oct 9, 2017
[Hide Comment] I'm a 5.8/5.9 leader. I led Continuum today without falling. I led IL, climbed through the crux but had to rest. Didn't find Continuum awkward. I love jams. Maybe it's the few feet of jamming with bad feet that gets the "awkward" talk flowing. Classic JT, both starts are challenging. Nov 20, 2017
Daniel Evans
Charlotte, NC
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] I led both IL and Continuum. Invisibility Lessons in my opinion was technically harder, but less sustained with only 1-2 short crux sections to cruiser terrain (similar to Overseer). The climbing on Continuum is just somewhat sustained JT 5.8. I actually found the awkward section to be pretty cruiser on locker hand jams, with one cruxy section up top where the crack begins to narrow. Either way, if you are leading 5.8/5.9 in JT, both routes are worthwhile. I was really glad to have gotten on this route. I almost passed it up because I didn't want to rip open all my scabs from the previous week in Indian Creek. Dec 20, 2017
John Wanner
West Allis, WI
[Hide Comment] A fine route with superb (sew-up) pro, but probably the most difficult "5.8" I've ever done. Once you're in the diagonal crack, it's sustained with little for your feet other than the crack. I've led quite a few 5.10's, admittedly mostly not in J-Tree, that weren't as strenuous. A friend of mine, 5.11+ leader who had led Invisibility Lessons earlier, quipped after his lead on this climb, "Well, that was about a grade harder than what I just did." I'd call this a 5.8 route for 5.10 leaders. But well worth doing if you're up to it. Jul 26, 2018
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Lots of great climbing on this one. Awkward? Maybe in spots. But also really good climbing of all styles. I was surprised how much small/finger size gear was available. The bottom is definitely strenuous and it ends at a thank-god flake. I happily placed a #4 at the dogleg, but you probably could have found something else. Plenty of options for anchors up top - I ended up making mine with a green, purple, and red camalot. Oct 6, 2021
Ryan Wood
Bend, OR
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Tough for the grade, especially with the start, but what else do you expect in Joshua Tree? A proud send for a leader around the grade, and still a thoughtful climb for those above it. Fun either way! Dec 5, 2021
Jaime BB
San Diego, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I absolutely despise this climb. It’s more grueling than Invisibility Lessons which I find quite enjoyable!
But after reading Locker’s comment, I may have to give the alternate route a go. Going straight up onto the slab sounds more fun than finishing on the right leaning awkward wide crack. Apr 14, 2023
Cosmic Hotdog
California
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Yeah, noticeably more difficult than Invisibility Lessons. Longer, more burly, more sustained. It's a good one, get on it! Dec 8, 2024
Jor-el Vaasborg
Los Angeles, CA