Avg: 3 from 34 votes
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft (21 m)|
|FA:||unknown to me|
|Page Views:||3,442 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Oct 29, 2005|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
2021 Raptor Avoidance Areas
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls, and often return to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that climbers and hikers avoid nest areas during critical nesting periods, typically in early March through late August. Avoiding climbing and hiking in the vicinity of the nests and keeping a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the BLM asks the public to avoid climbing or hiking in areas with high potential or historically known to have bird nesting activity. The impacted areas are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or their many names. For access to a map of raptor avoidance area or any questions about raptors and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Thomas Plank or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Full press release: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Climb up from the base and set overhead pro. Move up to a stance with a wider jam, place more overhead pro and then gun for a while in off-size jams or a hard lieback to reach a narrow stance on decent feet 2/3 of the way up. Maybe you placed more pro, or maybe you risked a fall. Arrive exhausted and rest on the foot to the left of the crack, place gear and and then gun up a few more mvevs to a good jam, placing more pro. Go for the awkward finish with a large piece, or perhaps above your gear.
If you can't jam this size, you might not get much gear. Though you can get more, I suspect it's a "4-piece" route for many non-jamming folks unless they hang or are mutants. The anchor is just above the slopey topout and is exciting to get to. Please Rap off instead of lower to avoid beating the rock with your rope. If you set a TR, please consider a long sling or cordalette.