Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 3,442 total · 18/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect March 1st 2021 Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: See main page for raptor info. Details

Description

How pumpy can a 70' route be anyway? OK, come find out.The climb is a striking, shallow dark, right-facing corner well left on the Fin Wall. This is perhaps 100M right of Crappichino. There is a plaque at the base last I saw.

Climb up from the base and set overhead pro. Move up to a stance with a wider jam, place more overhead pro and then gun for a while in off-size jams or a hard lieback to reach a narrow stance on decent feet 2/3 of the way up. Maybe you placed more pro, or maybe you risked a fall. Arrive exhausted and rest on the foot to the left of the crack, place gear and and then gun up a few more mvevs to a good jam, placing more pro. Go for the awkward finish with a large piece, or perhaps above your gear.

If you can't jam this size, you might not get much gear. Though you can get more, I suspect it's a "4-piece" route for many non-jamming folks unless they hang or are mutants. The anchor is just above the slopey topout and is exciting to get to. Please Rap off instead of lower to avoid beating the rock with your rope. If you set a TR, please consider a long sling or cordalette.

Protection

1.5" to 3" extra 1.5 and 2"If you want overhead pro at the top-out, take one wider piece.

Photos