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The Monk
5.10,
Trad, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 3 from 223
votes
FA: Alan Stevenson ("Heavy Duty") 2002
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Way Rambo
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Access Issue: Way Putter/Nutter route Permanently Closed
Details
The route Way Putter/Nutter has been permanently closed.
Please do not climb this route in order to protect cultural resources.
Climbing The Nutter/Way Putter damages sensitive cultural resources. Please stay within the designated trail, and keep dogs on leash in this area.
Access Fund and BLM conducted a site visit and have mutually agreed this route should be closed for cultural resource protection. If you have any questions or concerns please contact the Monticello BLM Field Office: apefferman@blm.gov
Description
This climb on the left side of Way Rambo Wall. It is best found by locating the 'wide' climb Way Nutter, which is just left of a huge gap in a right-facing dihedral, and then going one line further left past an arete. This line is characterized by its unusually large number of face holds for both hands and feet along the upper half of the route in lighter-colored rock. Climb up on good jams and good gear with decent face holds until near the top, when the jamming and face holds suddenly both become awkward and insecure. Put in those 1" cams and then 1.5's to get up to the anchors. Convincing yourself to let go with one hand and pull up slack to clip the anchors might be the crux of the route.
Protection
2 each, 1.5"-3.5" in 1/2 inch increments. An extra 3" is recommeneded by the Indian Creek guide book but seemed unnecessary. 0.75" for the top.
[Hide Photo] Nice route and beautifull landscape. Thanks to Gabe for the pic
[Hide Photo] The Monk: Sweet and a bit tricky right at the end... don't forget the green camalot.
Tamarisk Clearing
Boulder, CO
Fun climb, cleaner rock than it might look. Whoever dilled the anchor bolts on this thing needs corrective lenses. Nov 26, 2006
Boulder, CO
Carbondale, CO
Post some pics when your done. Nov 5, 2008
Parts unknown
Boulder, CO
Ouray, CO
Monticello, UT