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The Monk

5.10, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3 from 223 votes
FA: Alan Stevenson ("Heavy Duty") 2002
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Way Rambo
Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Way Putter/Nutter route Permanently Closed DetailsDrop down

Description

This climb on the left side of Way Rambo Wall. It is best found by locating the 'wide' climb Way Nutter, which is just left of a huge gap in a right-facing dihedral, and then going one line further left past an arete. This line is characterized by its unusually large number of face holds for both hands and feet along the upper half of the route in lighter-colored rock. Climb up on good jams and good gear with decent face holds until near the top, when the jamming and face holds suddenly both become awkward and insecure. Put in those 1" cams and then 1.5's to get up to the anchors. Convincing yourself to let go with one hand and pull up slack to clip the anchors might be the crux of the route.

Protection

2 each, 1.5"-3.5" in 1/2 inch increments. An extra 3" is recommeneded by the Indian Creek guide book but seemed unnecessary. 0.75" for the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nice route and beautifull landscape.<br>
Thanks to Gabe for the pic
[Hide Photo] Nice route and beautifull landscape. Thanks to Gabe for the pic
The Monk: Sweet and a bit tricky right at the end... don't forget the green camalot.
[Hide Photo] The Monk: Sweet and a bit tricky right at the end... don't forget the green camalot.
The Monk
[Hide Photo] The Monk
Sure, Saxfiend. How's this one?
[Hide Photo] Sure, Saxfiend. How's this one?

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rob Dillon
Tamarisk Clearing
[Hide Comment] Red Rocks comes to the Creek. It's probably possible to do the whole thing without putting your hand in the crack. Jun 2, 2006
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] ...but why would you want to?

Fun climb, cleaner rock than it might look. Whoever dilled the anchor bolts on this thing needs corrective lenses. Nov 26, 2006
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Anchor bolts are 1/2-1" out from the wall...sketch! back up the anchor for top-rope and lower off them at your own risk. Oct 22, 2007
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
[Hide Comment] anybody know if the anchor ever got replaced on this one? if not I might be able to do it this weekend... Nov 5, 2008
[Hide Comment] Take the bolt kit.
Post some pics when your done. Nov 5, 2008
[Hide Comment] Quality route. As of 10/31/09 the anchors are now drilled pins and they look fine, though the slings will eventually need replacement. To avoid walking and backcleaning, 2 #3.5 (or new 4) Camalots and 3 #3 Camalots nicely protect the bottom 50' of fistness. Old #4 camalots are too big. Nov 3, 2009
Devin Fin
Parts unknown
[Hide Comment] i replaced those time bombs fall of 08. the bolts were 7inch deck screws. i pulled them out by hand!!! Jan 22, 2010
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Most of the route is baggy #3 camalot. Most people will like to have somewhere between 3 - 5 #3s and a couple of 3.5 camalots in addition to the smaller gear Nov 12, 2013
Highlander
Ouray, CO
[Hide Comment] 3.5 camalots are money on the start of this one, new bd #4 fits in places but is tight. Nov 22, 2014
Cory N
Monticello, UT
[Hide Comment] Lower offs added courtesy of the ASCA. Please TR through your own gear. Oct 16, 2022
[Hide Comment] Would have been nice to have a 0.75 for the top Apr 9, 2023