The Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Routes in The Weasel Formation
|Belfry Tower. Hells Bells. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1|
|Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1|
|Devastator Tower T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Horus Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1|
|Little Weasel Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1|
|Live Free or Die Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2|
|Ozymandias T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2|
|Rooster, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2|
|Sodizin Tower. Bat out of Hell. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1|
|Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 290 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Paul Ross and Layne Potter (var leads)|
|Page Views:||1,609 total, 11/month|
|Shared By:||USBRIT Ross on May 21, 2005|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionThe route lies on the Pinnacle side on the east end of the Weasel formation. It is about 500' left of "The Rooster" climb, and starts up a superb wingate left facing groove that leads to the right end of a long roof system at about 190'. An interesting mixed climb on excellent rock from aid to a fine finish up the 5.10 headwall.
P1) The crack in the groove starts at 3" and tapers to to small stopper size. A previous attempt using pitons ended at 100' at a bolt on the left below a small roof. From the bolt continue up the groove, and then up and out right of the roof past two bolts to double anchors. 140' C2.
P2) A 13 bolt ladder apart from 2 stoppers and a #4 friend to double bolt anchors. 90' A0.
P3) Climb directly up the headwall above the belay past two protection bolts. 60' 5.10.
FA: Paul Ross and Layne Potter (var leads) May 22 2005