Type: Trad, Aid, 290 ft (88 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross and Layne Potter (var leads)
Page Views: 2,045 total · 11/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on May 21, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Description

The route lies on the Pinnacle side on the east end of the Weasel formation. It is about 500' left of "The Rooster" climb, and starts up a superb wingate left facing groove that leads to the right end of a long roof system at about 190'. An interesting mixed climb on excellent rock from aid to a fine finish up the 5.10 headwall.

P1) The crack in the groove starts at 3" and tapers to to small stopper size. A previous attempt using pitons ended at 100' at a bolt on the left below a small roof. From the bolt continue up the groove, and then up and out right of the roof past two bolts to double anchors. 140' C2.
P2) A 13 bolt ladder apart from 2 stoppers and a #4 friend to double bolt anchors. 90' A0.
P3) Climb directly up the headwall above the belay past two protection bolts. 60' 5.10.

FA: Paul Ross and Layne Potter (var leads) May 22 2005

Protection

Doubles/threes.. from Aliens to #3.5 Friends .one #4. Stoppers Medium to small.

Photos