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Finless Brown

5.10+, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 1.5 from 11 votes
FA: Jay Brown
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Fin Wall
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

To the right about 25 feet of Brother From Another Planet. Start on a 8 foot pedestal.Climb up, then left, then up again in an off-width to 2 rings.

Protection

rack cams: 1 #1; 2 #2; 1 #3; 3 #3.5; 3 #4; 2 #5

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

fun fat time!!!
[Hide Photo] fun fat time!!!
The upper part of finless brown, TR
[Hide Photo] The upper part of finless brown, TR

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] giving this route 2 stars, at the creek no less, is hilarious. maybe in kansas though. May 2, 2005
JoergB
Germany
 
[Hide Comment] The start is a bit akward because of the loose flake inside the crack. But further up its a great offwidth offering oportunities to practice hand-fist and double hand stack. Oct 14, 2009
Sam Feuerborn
Carbondale
 
[Hide Comment] Loose flake is gone as of this last weekend. Feb 13, 2012
Ray Lovestead
Boulder, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] GEAR BETA!!

The gear description of this route is dangerously wrong. Those are 2x old school #5s in the description AND a you need a big bro. You will deck if you fall in the large middle section unless you have a big bro. I had to stop mid-route, hang on for dear life, and drop a line in order to bring mine up.

This is my gear beta (new sizes):

2x #3s for the start, 2x #5s, #4 big bro (blue), 2x #6. Then maybe a 5 or 4 above when you finally get to make an actual hand stack. Nov 30, 2015
Jason Brown
Carbondale, CO
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] dont fall. Dec 4, 2015
MTN MIA
Vail
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Super fun route but gear beta is all wrong. In the opening moves getting into the deep slot you can place a BD 5 and a BD 4. Then enter the deep slot. It really is a chimney/squeeze for a ways. You can place a gold big bro if needed or continue way up for a BD 8, BD 7 and a BD 6. It is wide to the end. Possibly another BD 6 up there but nothing smaller. Fun route. For me the crux was the leaning diagonal getting into the wide. Nov 27, 2022