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Routes in Fin Wall

Beauty and the Beast T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brother From Another Planet T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Court Summons T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Crappucino T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
DF T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Demolition T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty street Fight T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Double Trouble T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
FF1 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
FF2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Feliz de Fin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feltcher, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fin del Mundo T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Finito T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finless Brown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Finnegan's Whiskers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fintastic T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight Time T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Force It In T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hot Fun Sunday T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jewel of Denial T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Nagasaki T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Beggin' T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nukanator T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Piano, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Salmon Run T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Skid Row T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Strike and Dip T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Third World Lover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown finger crack L of Crappucino T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed twin crack L of Double Trouble T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Virgin Voyage T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Walkin' Talkin' Bob T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Salamander T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wrasse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Josh Gross
Page Views: 2,030 total, 13/month
Shared By: Lon Black on Apr 1, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Beautiful finger to thin finger crack. It's only 30 ft., but you have to work for it. Very strenuous. The climb is in between Walkin' Talkin' Bob and Brother From Another Planet. A huge boulder hides the start of this route. Start in a right facing corner and layback up to the roof. Pull up and left out of the roof in order to switch into the left facing corner. Use the face out left for your left foot. Sweet line.

Protection

0.5 Camalot, 2 yellow Aliens, 2 or 3 green Aliens, 2 blue Aliens.
Bloom guide calls it unnamed 5.11

And I thought it felt hard for 10+ Mar 17, 2014
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
yes EF you are right on .. im glad some one finely pointed this out.. Jan 25, 2013
EldoFiend   WY
Devin, wasn't this "White Cracker Killer?" Jan 25, 2013
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
my fingers don't fit in this thing for a move near the top .. kind of hard for fat fingered folks.. Jan 24, 2013
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Fun, less locking and more footwork than expected. Crux was not pulling the lip, it was up high. Apr 12, 2010
Cody Ferguson
Durango, CO
 
Cody Ferguson   Durango, CO
 
Absolutely beautiful--if only it were a bit longer. Mar 26, 2010
claytown
Boulder, CO
  5.10+
claytown   Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Great crack but super short. Agree it's too short to be a classic at the creek but it would classic for sure if it were two or three times as long. Similarly it would be an 11- if it were longer too.

CL Mar 31, 2008
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
Correction: this climb is just to the right of brother from another planet Nov 6, 2006
In a reasonable world, I would give this route two stars, but I'm shorting it to bring the average down to an IC fair two star. In my book (and I actually discussed this with other people), there is no way a 30' IC pitch could ever warrant classic status.

That said, Piano is quite good while it lasts, though totally finger size dependant -- bigger is harder. Apr 12, 2006
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
f.a. is Josh Gross i believe. May 22, 2005