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The Reaper Wears Pink

5.11-, Trad, 80 ft,  Avg: 2.8 from 29 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Original Meat Wall
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is at the top of the approach trail and is distinguished by the varnished left-facing corner that makes up most of the route, but doesn't reach the ground. The start is fifteen feet of technical face-climbing along a seam with occasional pods for gear and finger-locks. The rock is pretty good, the moves are very interesting, and placing the gear is kind of pumpy. There's a good rest on a sloping ledge at the base of the corner. The corner goes from big fingers (Red Alien-ish) to a Red Camalot in about 40 feet, to a no hands rest, before pulling a bulge on 3 Friends. Finish up the corner in hands to big hands, and the all-too-typical grovel up a low angle slot for a move or two to reach the chains. I do not think it is worth bringing an OW piece for this final section. It is short and easy.An enjoyable route that would get more stars if it were longer or more sustained.

Protection

One of the few routes at Indian Creek that needs a few stoppers. The start takes a small to medium nut or two. I also used some medium Aliens down low, to a 3 Camalot up high and everything in between as the crack gets slowly wider.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bubb in the clear
[Hide Photo] Bubb in the clear
moving past the crux.
[Hide Photo] moving past the crux.
Tony Bubb getting into the layback dihedral
[Hide Photo] Tony Bubb getting into the layback dihedral

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Fun. clean, mostly good rock.
The bottom actually would be better protected with nuts than with cams, mostly of good size. But for lack of having any there, I just cammed the lobes down to 100% and placed then like nuts and they were OK/good enough.
The crux comes at mid-height where the clean corner is 1.5" and lie-backing seems to be the technique of choice. Oct 23, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Super fun line. I protected the bottom face moves with a nuts, though I also placed an "umbrella-ed" #0.5 camelot in one slot and it was bomber. The layback portion goes from red aliens to #1 camelolts. There are at least 2 somewhat secure stemming rests in this section that help with gear placements (look for smears way out on the edge). The final hand crack is a bit 'tweener in sizes - big #2 camelots to tight #3 camelots. Mar 30, 2007
Cody Ferguson
Durango, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Great climb! Apr 11, 2010