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The Reaper Wears Pink
Trad, 80 ft,
Avg: 2.8 from 29
> Moab Area
> Indian Creek
> Original Meat Wall
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas
Please be aware of climbing routes that have nesting raptors. This News Release requests climbers' cooperation in protecting eagles, peregrine falcons, and other migratory birds who use the Indian Creek area to raise their young. Between March 1st and August 31st each year, the BLM asks climbers to avoid climbing these walls until they have been cleared by agency biologists: The Wall, Far Side, Second Meat Wall, Disappointment Cliff, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. Two of these walls are on partially or wholly on lands managed by SITLA, who is working cooperatively with BLM to protect raptors. The BLM and SITLA will survey walls and generally in May can release any routes that don't have active nests. The walls with active nests should be avoided until the young have fledged. Eagles and falcons mate for life and return to the same nest sites year after year to raise their young, your cooperation is vital to their survival.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
This route is at the top of the approach trail and is distinguished by the varnished left-facing corner that makes up most of the route, but doesn't reach the ground. The start is fifteen feet of technical face-climbing along a seam with occasional pods for gear and finger-locks. The rock is pretty good, the moves are very interesting, and placing the gear is kind of pumpy. There's a good rest on a sloping ledge at the base of the corner. The corner goes from big fingers (Red Alien-ish) to a Red Camalot in about 40 feet, to a no hands rest, before pulling a bulge on 3 Friends. Finish up the corner in hands to big hands, and the all-too-typical grovel up a low angle slot for a move or two to reach the chains. I do not think it is worth bringing an OW piece for this final section. It is short and easy.An enjoyable route that would get more stars if it were longer or more sustained.
One of the few routes at Indian Creek that needs a few stoppers. The start takes a small to medium nut or two. I also used some medium Aliens down low, to a 3 Camalot up high and everything in between as the crack gets slowly wider.