Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

The Bottle Tester

5.5 X, Trad, 330 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter
Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swel… > Eastern Reef Ar… > J Crags

Description

The Bottle Tester I 5.5X Climbs the smooth looking slab about 500 yards up to the left(south)of the entrance to Uneva Mine Canyon. A short route that is technically easy but is a fun opportunity to test out ones bottle for the many long runouts on the climbs of the Estern Reef slabs. This route compleated Ross and Potters goal of 50 new routes on this area of the San Rafael Swell. Starts at the foot of an open slab directly below a thin 30' crack that forms the top of the first pitch. Cairn.
P1)Easy slab to the crack that leads to double anchors at the foot of a prominent groove.180'5.4.
P2) Do not climb the groove but move out right onto the center of the fairly steep slab and climb it direct to double anchors at its top. 150'5.5X .One can scamble several hundred feet higher up easy rock for better views....
Descend the route.

Protection

Friends:One #1 and One #2.5. Two 60 meter ropes.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pitch 2 150' runout, only 5.5X....
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2 150' runout, only 5.5X....
Potter in Paradise
[Hide Photo] Potter in Paradise
Paul Ross on Pitch 1
[Hide Photo] Paul Ross on Pitch 1