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Routes in J Crags

Aguille Du Tangelo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Bottle Tester, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Dread Naught T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Feeding the Rat - Part II T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Hunter, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Milwaukee's Best S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rabbits Trod. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Silver Lining T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Sunshine Slab. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Velnio Akmuo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 750 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ben Folsom, Paul Ross
Page Views: 927 total, 6/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Feb 25, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Approach from the Uneva Mine trail head. Starts below a 200' pillar on the right(north) side of the Sunshine Slab Formation. A good introduction to the slabs.

P1)Follow the groove crack system that angles right, then a slab to double anchors. 200' 5.7.
P2) Move left a few feet then more steeply to the top of the pillar. Continue to a flake below an open slab. 160' 5.7+
P3) Straight up east slab to double anchors .170'5.4
P4) A few thin moves left of belay to a shallow groove then a pleasent slab to double anchors. 200' 5.5.
P5) Scramble to a ledge then 4th class about 700' to the summit and register in a cairn.

Descent : Descend Sunshine slab... 4th class from the summit for several hundred feet to the southern edge of the slab and look out for double rap anchors when the slab becomes steep. Four raps to the groung. The last rap is from slings around a block.

Protection

Camalots: from #0.3 to #3 Two 60 meter ropes

Photos

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