Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ed Webster, Chester Dreiman, 1983
Page Views: 1,802 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Jan 26, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This route climbs the South face to the East ridge and ascends the ridge to the summit. The rock is much more weathered than Moses, and there are some looser sections.

Pitch 1: Climb up ledges to dihedral facing rimrock then climb the offwidth past a bolt to a bolted belay ledge.

Variation: We climbed a difficult offwidth crack to the left leading to the same belay. Erica pulled a TV-sized block off getting to this offwidth.

Pitch 2: Face climb up the ridge past some drilled angles to a belay ledge with bolts. If you climb the 1st pitch variation you skip this pitch.

Pitch 3: A 5.10c move puts you on the ridge which leads up on easier rock past a drilled angle to the "plank ledge".

Pitch 4: Follow Ridge at 5.6 to the summit.

Variation: From anchors a little below the plank ledge belay, we traversed right and went across a very loose and sandy ramp up to the plank ledge. (not recommended)

Descent: Rappel the route. Note: According to the register, we were the 20th ascent of the tower on Jan 27th 2004.


1 set of cams, some stoppers, 1 #4.5 Camalot.


Brad and I did this route earlier this spring. We did Zeus in the morning and Aphrodite that afternoon. On the first pitch we climbed to the notch between Aphrodite and the wall behind it, then continued up behind the tower. After hitting the notch you climb what looks like a horrible offwidth but it ended up being pretty easy. There is a fixed pin in this offwidth. On top of the offwidth is an anchor. This is where I belayed for the first pitch, we had a 60 meter rope and I did not place anything until about the notch, which made it possible. We also belayed a little below the plank on the 3rd pitch and then moved right, passing a star bolt. I was going to go across the ramp but aided up a ROTTEN crack instead, that got us up on the plank. The last pitch is not a scramble like Climbing Utah Falcon Guide says. Walk plank, Climb offwidth over boulder blocking your way to the summit, and then climb a crack, this pitch is at least 5.9. We did not see any easy ridge to the summit. One last thing, the anchor on top of "pitch 4" is about 15-20 feet short of the summit, we climbed up to the summit and then down climbed back to the anchor. From this anchor you can rap to the plank with one 60 meter rope. Jul 4, 2006
For the grade, this one's kind of wild.

More pics and a TR at
piquaclimber.net/past/zeusa… Feb 18, 2007
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
I thought this route was not too good. ALso the grade might indicate relative easy, but its actually fairly committing. The bolt ladder on pitch two is a series of time-capsuled pieces from the first ascent in very soft rock. Rather than shock load, I just aided them. We screwed up the walking the plank pitch and traversed around to the north side where I found a poorly protected pitch of powered sugar... spooky for the leader and the second. The descent is a bit of a problem too... we tried to follow the fall-line from the summit anchor (this anchor is actually 25 feet below the summit requiring one person to down lead a bit of 5.7). I ended up on the blank south face and had to put in an emergency anchor to get down. Pulling the rope was stressful cus we would not have gotten back up the face if it had gotten stuck. On the other hand, the anchors on ridge that you are supposed to follow down leave a lot to be desired. They could stand a replacement (I didn't have time or permission for this). I felt the need to back them all up on the way up, so rapping off them would be spooky.

The climbing is not that difficult, but the route is rather involved... don't let the grade pull you into something that keeps you overnight! Apr 8, 2007