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Routes in Culvert Canyon Block Tower

Southeast Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Irby & Ben Folsom Jan. 28, 2004
Page Views: 962 total, 6/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Jan 27, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route climbs the right hand crack system on the Southeast face (the face opposite the mouth of Culvert Canyon).

P1- Start in some kind of loose rock protected by a bolt about 10 feet up. Then climb the first tier of the roof through a thin hands slot to some huge jugs. Then climb the next 10 foot roof with fists to a 5.10 offwidth above. The belay is bolted. 5.11

P2- Climb a 5.10 offwidth/squeeze through a weird loose flake. After the flake the crack splits. Go left to a small ledge. Climb up and left from there through some very scary loose rock to an unprotected 5.8 corner above to a two bolt belay on a big ledge just below the summit.

Scramble to the summit and downclimb (one hard move off the ledge.

Descent- Rappel the route in one 60 meter rappel or two shorter ones.

This route has a few sections of really bad rock, but for the most part is excellent. The 20 foot roof on the first pitch is great!

Protection

A couple sets of cams from #0.5 Camalot to #4 Camalot.
Ben do you mean climbing by the sandy block above the ledge? It took me a while to commit to that section. Jan 5, 2008
Ben Folsom  
 
Yeah, when we did this, I only had up to an old style #4 camalot which did make it a bit runout. What did you think of the sandy part near the top? For me that was the scariest part of the route. Although my memory of it is starting to get vague as it has been a while. Jan 3, 2008
I might have been slacking and making it look harder then it was since it was cold. Nice send Ben and Paul. Dec 28, 2007
Ben K. and I did this tower this December, we agreed having bigger cams would be nice. Pitch 2 has about 20 feet of WIDE crack. A new 6, or old 5 camalots would work great. Ben had to runout this section for 20+ feet as our biggest was the old 4.5 which worked in sections of the crack that squeezed down. Dec 24, 2007