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Routes in Texas Tower
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East Face Free T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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East Face of Texas Tower T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 |
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South Face T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 37.60885, -109.7838 |
| FA: | Tim Toula & Kathy Zaiser. April 26, 1987 - FFA Bret Ruckman, Tim Coats |
| Page Views: | 9,559 total · 36/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Folsom on Apr 30, 2004 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Climbs the obvious crack system on the south face of the tower.
Pitch 1- Climb hands in a corner on the left side of a pillar. Above the pillar climb 5.9 loose to a belay with bolts.
Pitch 2- Climb a 5.9 squeeze slot to a handcrack above then belay at bolts.
Pitch 3- An awkward 10- move leads to a good squeeze chimney. Belay on large ledge with bolt.
Pitch 4- Climb over blocks in chimney then make a stem move and hand traverse right to a good hand crack. Climb the handcrack past a scary loose spot to a good ledge with bolts. 5.10
Pitch 5- Start with 5.10+ fists and into steep offwidth above. This is a long steep pitch with three bolts. Lots of big gear needed.
Pitch 6- Climb a 5.10 offwidth to the top of a pillar and a piton, then 100' of 5.9 chimney to a belay bolt.
Pitch 7- Climb 200 ft of chimney past a fixed piece to a belay at bolts. 5.9
Pitch 8- Make a 5.10 face move then easier climbing leads to the summit.
Descent- Rappel anchors are found on the opposite side of the tower than where you top out. rap fixed anchors to the ground.
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