[Hide Comment] FA: the Nutter, Nov. 2001. FA nicknamed by Heavy Duty for driving from Denver to the Creek almost every weekend the previous spring. Feb 24, 2005

[Hide Comment] I climbed up to the base of the offwidth and it looking painful and all, I led out right to climb a nice little finger crack to a block (which appears to be loose, but is actually quite stable) to a loose ledge and back left to the anchors (this is another option if you don't have a lot of big gear to lead the crack-which isn't that bad using the ledge/face holds on the left). Cheers, AK! Mar 15, 2005

[Hide Comment] If you skip the offwidth of this climb, you've skipped the best part. It might look hard, but if you get up in it with your right side, there are some easy mantelling moves on the left wall. Mar 21, 2005

[Hide Comment] This route is a great warm up. The hand crack at the bottom is great and the off-with section is really fun. There are plenty of rests from which one can easily place protection. I liked this one better than Rochambeau. Also, be careful at the top near the anchors, there is some loose rock up there that I nearly knocked down. Mar 24, 2005

[Hide Comment] #6 Camalot was real useful at the top. Nov 17, 2008

[Hide Comment] Fun route! I agree that a #6 Camalot is really nice to have. Nov 17, 2008

[Hide Comment] You want one if not TWO number 6s at the top. I levitated one for a while, and then wished I had another. Crack's too wide for a five up there. Apr 6, 2011

[Hide Comment] i wish i could levitate items. then i could just leave half the rack on the ground and levitate it up to me when i need it. maybe a sandwich too, while i was at it. Apr 7, 2011

[Hide Comment] I climbed this on a 4, 5 and 6 (all C4) and didn't feel like I was running it out at all. Just bump your cams, standard offwidth technique. The top was the best part. Oct 29, 2012

[Hide Comment] Such an awesome little route. Unusual for the Creek, this route has a few really nice hand and footholds to break up the crack climbing. I can't recommend this enough as an intro to OW climbing. I took 1 #3, 1 #4, 2 #5's and 1 #6 and placed them all. The second #5 is nice for the last moves, but not necessary.

I scratched out a small plaque with the route name and difficulty ("Way Nutter 5.9") and put it at the base so more folks will notice and climb this awesome line. I made the plaque small and somewhat inconspicuous though, many apologies to the First Ascentionist if this plaque is unwanted. Dec 1, 2013

[Hide Comment] Not to be missed if you're in the area. Short and ridiculously fun warm-up and great intro to wide climbing. Do two wide moves, take a rest on a ledge, repeat. Bring a 5 and a 6 for big stuff and be prepared to slide the latter up with you. Mar 23, 2015

[Hide Comment] Looking up at the wide crux, I said to my partner, "The #5 should protect most of the crack, and then I'll just scoot up and clip the anchors." It didn't. Bring a #6, or you'll get spooked! The moves to that point were incredibly fun, though -- I would really recommend this climb.

On a side note, my 2013 guidebook lists a chockstone anchor at 50', which I couldn't see. There's a nice bolted anchor above the finishing ledge. Where was the chockstone one? Dec 11, 2018

[Hide Comment] Didn’t have my #6 for the top, but it was so chill I didn’t miss it. Would have used it if I’d had it though. Hidden side pull in the OW means you don’t have to finish the final moves using wide technique. Oct 26, 2019

[Hide Comment] This is a GREAT crack to practice OW techniques on. For one thing, the ledges on the left and good edge allow one to mostly face climb the entire thing at 5.9 if they wish, by why do that? I intentionally avoided ALL of the ledges/face holds and that made the crack feel more like sustained 5.10 of a variety of sizes & techniques. This is also a great crack to learn the art of cam pushing.

C4 Rack, in order of use:
3, 3.5, 4, 5, 6, opt. extra 6, 4

Save one of the #4s for the exit as it fits MUCH better than a #5. A #3.5 is handy since the crack gradually widens, but you could just go a bit longer between pieces, place a baggy #3 or a tight #4 a bit below/above. Mar 29, 2020

[Hide Comment] This climb is permanently closed, read more in the access section of this climb. Apr 11, 2022

[Hide Comment] Cultural resource? Was there a pottery shard in the back of the crack?

..l.

Name corrected 8/23. Thanks, Perin. May 10, 2022

[Hide Comment] I was hoping someone else could better answer Ben's question (the email the BLM message in the Access Issue is pretty weak), but there appears to be some type of old grain storage or oven. There are now chains up around the area and a sign that talks about protecting "Traces of America's Past" Nov 7, 2023