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Routes in Scarface

Banditos ! T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Anal Leakage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Guy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Jon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Uhuru T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Carlito's Way T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cement Shoes T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cleaner, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cocaine Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Columbian Hit Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Comic Relief T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cross Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Death of a Cowboy T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Desert Shield T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Desert Sunset T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Desert Vuarnet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirt Cheap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fat Farm, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fertile Crescent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
He's up Here T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Internal Scar T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lt. Uhuru T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mantel Illness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Montana Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
My Little Friend T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Not That Funny T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nubian Slave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Powder Your Nose T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 666 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route of All Evil T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scard Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scarface T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shylock, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sicilian T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Impact T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torque Wrench T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trading Places T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown (just right of Spam) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Bandito Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10- T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft L of Scarface T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wavy Gravy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Of The Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Where's Carruthers? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Your Mama T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
unknown (Wide Hands LF Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,977 total, 19/month
Shared By: Danny Inman on May 3, 2005 with updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is around the corner from scarface. The anchors are visible and are 45-50 feet up. The route follows a right-leaning flake/crack system in a right-facing dihedral. Mainly fingers, thinner at the top. Although this route is short, it is worth doing. There is a two-bolt anchor with a chain.

(Per Mark Roberts duplicate entry in 2014 that has been merged into this one):
"A short but engaging route that runs from #2 Camalots to .5 Camalots with several face ledges to eke out some rests. Crux is 3/4 of the way up on ring locks, but there are good feet to take you through."

LOCATION (Per Mark Roberts duplicate entry in 2014 that has been merged into this one):
"A south-facing wall around the corner (climber's left) from Scarface and Where's Carruthers. Begins off a boulder with solid hands in above a flare for your feet. Leans to the right, angle kicks back as you climb higher."

Protection

#2 camalot, 2 X 0.75 camalot, 0.4 camalot.

(Per Mark Roberts duplicate entry in 2014 that has been merged into this one):
"2 #2 Camalots, 3 #1 Camalots, 1 .75 Camalot and 1 .5 Camalot will sew it up. Bolted anchors."
SThal
Logan, UT
SThal   Logan, UT
This is the same route as "unnamed 10-" which is listed to the left of this here on MP. Nov 22, 2016
Keith W
  5.9+
Keith W  
  5.9+
This is a fun route and certainly worth doing if you are in the area or waiting for Scarface. Short and sweet! May 1, 2017
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
 
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
 
I enjoyed it alot. Great easier route for a warm up or for new crack climbers. Aug 13, 2014
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
 
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
 
Why was he ashamed? Apr 2, 2014
justino  
One day while walking along the wall, my partner pointed out this route and questioned whether I had climbed it before. Having done so, he then hung his head in shame admitting that it was one of his FA's. The route was named Scar Tissue and rated 5.9, however a plaque was never made. He was embarrassed to accept credit for the FA. Apparently the climb wasn't machismo enough to withstand his own scorn as a true grit desert curmudgeon. Apr 2, 2014
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Awkward start to great thin hands and fingers. Definitely look for good smears on the right. Awesome warmup/intro. Oct 2, 2013
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
  5.10-
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
  5.10-
FYI the left (lower) anchor bolt was extremely loose and wiggly on 11/24. I was able to tighten it back down, but it will likely come loose again. Nov 28, 2012
Average Jim
  5.9
Average Jim  
  5.9
I agree, I led this climb the other day and placed a 2.5 tec friend, one BD #1, two BD .75s, and two BD .5s and that was plenty for someone just getting into leading the thinner sizes. Keep an eye out for the foot holds out to the right, they will give you a bit of a rest. Mar 11, 2009
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
This is a nice warmup route that receives morning shade. I racked up on double 0.5, 0.75, 1, and 2 camalots though I prefer to sew it up on lead. Oct 28, 2008