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Routes in Wall Street South

Handle with Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Say Your Prayers T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Skinwalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spur of the Moment Tower, The Loveridge T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Uno Mo-mo's T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Jay Smith
Page Views: 2,444 total · 14/month
Shared By: Joe Auer on Oct 19, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This stellar route is 1.5 miles It’s upriver from Long Canyon and downriver from Day Canyon. It is characterized by a leaf-shaped pod halfway up the route. It starts with some chossy, face climbing with huecos past two good bolts. The splitter starts with some fingerlocks and some stemming that leads to thin hands. Some face holds on the left of the crack make this section not so desparate. The pod offers some chimney rests before you blast out the perfect hands that take you out of the pod and to the anchors.


Double set of cams from #1 to #3. Extra 1.5 and 2 Friend-sized pieces. Two bolts protect the inital chossy face climbing. 70m rope or 2 ropes required.


0.8 past miles marker 4. If you pass mile marker 3 go back about 100 yards or so.


Joe Auer
Moab, UT
Joe Auer   Moab, UT
a 60m rope DOES NOT reach the ground. you will end up with about ten to fifteen feet of sketchy downclimbing. Jul 27, 2006
Mark Ferguson
Mark Ferguson  
One of the best cracks in the Moab area. Oct 16, 2008
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
Correction on the location of this route. It's about .8 past mile marker 4. If you pass mile marker 3 go back about 100 yards or so. Jun 14, 2012
Joe Auer
Moab, UT
Joe Auer   Moab, UT
thanks for the correction, steven. i also think that this route is not as hard as the 11c rating implies. some might think this is only 11a, especially if you're good at #2 friend cracks. Jun 25, 2012
Like most all #2 friend, #1 Camalot size desert cracks. Personal hand size is really going to influence difficulty one direction or another. Just sayin .. Realize, most folks can be awesome at #2 friend size cracks if their hands fit in them. \;o) Feb 10, 2014
Fort Collins
Gregory   Fort Collins
This thing is simply amazing, best single pitch I've done around Moab! May 10, 2015
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
This climb is NOT downriver from Long canyon. It’s upriver from Long and downriver from Day. The mile markers listed are correct. Rack: .4(1) .5(2) .75-2(3-4 each) camalots plus Qds for bolts. The thin hand section is tight! Great route. cold shut and one bolt Anchor with fixed locker is looking a bit worn. Mar 17, 2018
Joe Auer
Moab, UT
Joe Auer   Moab, UT
Thank you for the correction, Spencer. Looks like the description has been updated. I was never good at giving directions lol. I'd like to add that due to the aspect of the route it's easier to see it while driving upriver back towards Moab. Mar 28, 2018

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