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Routes in Wall Street South

Handle with Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Say Your Prayers T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Skinwalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spur of the Moment Tower, The Loveridge T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Uno Mo-mo's T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Jay Smith
Page Views: 2,298 total, 14/month
Shared By: Joe Auer on Oct 19, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This stellar route is 1.5 miles downriver from Long Canyon. It is characterized by a leaf-shaped pod halfway up the route. It starts with some chossy, face climbing with huecos past two good bolts. The splitter starts with some fingerlocks and some stemming that leads to thin hands. Some face holds on the left of the crack make this section not so desparate. The pod offers some chimney rests before you blast out the perfect hands that take you out of the pod and to the anchors.

Protection

Double set of cams from #1 to #3. Extra 1.5 and 2 Friend-sized pieces. Two bolts protect the inital chossy face climbing. 70m rope or 2 ropes required.

Location

0.8 past miles marker 4. If you pass mile marker 3 go back about 100 yards or so.

Photos

Gregory
Fort Collins
  5.11a
Gregory   Fort Collins
  5.11a
This thing is simply amazing, best single pitch I've done around Moab! May 10, 2015
Like most all #2 friend, #1 Camalot size desert cracks. Personal hand size is really going to influence difficulty one direction or another. Just sayin .. Realize, most folks can be awesome at #2 friend size cracks if their hands fit in them. \;o) Feb 10, 2014
Joe Auer
Moab, Utah
 
Joe Auer   Moab, Utah
 
thanks for the correction, steven. i also think that this route is not as hard as the 11c rating implies. some might think this is only 11a, especially if you're good at #2 friend cracks. Jun 25, 2012
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11
Correction on the location of this route. It's about .8 past mile marker 4. If you pass mile marker 3 go back about 100 yards or so. Jun 14, 2012
Mark Ferguson
  5.11
Mark Ferguson  
  5.11
One of the best cracks in the Moab area. Oct 16, 2008
Joe Auer
Moab, Utah
 
Joe Auer   Moab, Utah
 
a 60m rope DOES NOT reach the ground. you will end up with about ten to fifteen feet of sketchy downclimbing. Jul 27, 2006