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Early Access
Routes in Wall Street South
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A Bit Mo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dos Mo Mos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Handle with Care T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Rest A Sherd T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Ritual, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Say Your Prayers T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Skinwalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Stemasaurus Rex T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unknown T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Uno Mo-mo's T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 38.56719, -109.65884 |
| FA: | Jay Smith |
| Page Views: | 4,662 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Joe Auer on Oct 19, 2004 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
This stellar route is upriver from Long Canyon and downriver from Day Canyon. It is characterized by a leaf-shaped pod halfway up the route. It starts with some chossy, face climbing with huecos past two good bolts. The splitter starts with some fingerlocks and some stemming that leads to thin hands. Some face holds on the left of the crack make this section not so desparate. The pod offers some chimney rests before you blast out the perfect hands that take you out of the pod and to the anchors.
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