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Let 'er Buck

5.12, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 39 votes
FA: Steve Petro, Lisa Gnade, Gordon Douglass, 1990's
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Donnelly Canyon
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

This route has the unique distinction of being the only sport climb at the Creek, and a great one at that! Let 'R Buck makes for a good end of the day/weekend/month trip climb when your paws and feet are too sore to shove in any more cracks. Located to the right of Binou's Crack.

The crux on this route is getting to the second bolt. If you botched the sequence right at the bolt, then you might hit the deck (or come really close). Having the second bolt clipped is nice, but maybe not necessary with an attentive belay. After the third bolt, the climbing is superb and balancey and in the 5.11 range. The rock on this route is awesome and moves are memorable.

Protection

About 12 QDs

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Past the Crux and enjoying the fine Arete Climbing.  Photo by Alex Cooper.
[Hide Photo] Past the Crux and enjoying the fine Arete Climbing. Photo by Alex Cooper.
fantastic arete climbing
[Hide Photo] fantastic arete climbing
Thanksgiving 2017
[Hide Photo] Thanksgiving 2017
Heading up Let 'er Buck
[Hide Photo] Heading up Let 'er Buck
Adam climbing the only pure sport climb at the creek, a stellar arete.
[Hide Photo] Adam climbing the only pure sport climb at the creek, a stellar arete.
Fancy dancin' on a fantastic route. Photo by Micah Tedeschi
[Hide Photo] Fancy dancin' on a fantastic route. Photo by Micah Tedeschi

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Steve Petro, Lisa Gnade, and myself did the first ascent of Let 'er Buck back in the early 90's.

Regards - Gordon Douglass Jun 19, 2007
Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] Great route! Much better than I thought it was going to be. Clipping the second bolt will leave you puckered, but the rest of the climbing is really really fun, great change from tight hand cracks and off finger routes. Nov 14, 2008
Harald Swen
Oisterwijk
[Hide Comment] Good route. Hard start (b1 to b2) and clipping 3rd bolt is bit scary (blow it and you're on the ground). Nice intricate climbing afterwards with good rests in between. 5.12b. Apr 16, 2010
Leland Stamper
Lander, WY
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] A totally inspiring looking feature, this is, simply put, some of the best arete climbing I have ever experienced. Most of the climbing is pretty technical, I found myself unlocking each sequence move by move, consistently engaged the entire time. Highly recommend this one, and unlike most of the climbs at Donnelly, there probably won't be a line for this rig during peak season! Jan 6, 2015
Corey Flynn
Beattyvillain
[Hide Comment] I’ve been on this thing on two different days now and couldn’t get to the second bolt no matter what I tried. The climbing above the second bolt is no harder than 11+ and fun but the start didn’t make sense to me and I was able to tr half shark and air Sweden clean May 7, 2018
Levi Call
Utah
[Hide Comment] 5 years after I was originally on this route, all the same holds remain. The beta is very specific and trying to figure it out can be baffling. I concur with the 12c rating. This is a stellar route but the potential for ground falls exists. Have fun and be smart! Mar 27, 2021
Jack Taylor
Issaquah, WA
 
[Hide Comment] V5/6 seems about right for first two bolts. I’m not a bold climber and think it would be reckless not to clip bolt 2 from ground as it’s pretty dang easy to do. Very fun climb! Apr 8, 2021
Ian Edison
Seattle, WA
  5.12
[Hide Comment] Some hangers are loose, bring a wrench if you got one! Mar 23, 2024