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Routes in Way Rambo

A Tale of Two Sheep T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blue Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chest Full of Kind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Closed Course T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockometer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Expendables 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Expendables 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
First Blood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fix Your Tips T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fuzz T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ginzu T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Good Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Grindhouse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Host, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hostess, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inhabitants, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Layaway Plan T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Layoff plan TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monk, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ninja in the Shadows T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegades of Funk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rochambeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Serrator Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slice and Dice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Way Nutter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Rambo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wishbone Suspension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,382 total · 14/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 30, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This takes a right-facing corner just left of The Monk. The corner has a step in it half way up. Slightly loose and a bit of thrutching near the top.

Protection

Mostly hands, some fist-size pieces too.

Photos

Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Our rack: 1 #1 (to back up double pin anchor for TR), 4 #2, 3 #3, 1 #4, 1 #4.5, 1 #5 Probably overkill, but you won't have to walk anything. Beta hint: layback the wide sections. Oct 22, 2007
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Cool route. First section is similar to Amaretto Corner P1 on Supercrack. If the biggest piece yo take is a #4 C4 then yo could hit the ledge if you blow the moves at the top wide section. Although probably completely unnecessary I took a #5 and a #6 and was happy to have them up high. CL Oct 16, 2009
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.10
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.10
Had fun on this one. Was told hands to wide hands. For the most part, this is pretty accurate, lots of blues and yellows. Then it got wider... And wider. My single #4 made the end pretty spicy. Bring a 5 and, if you have it, an extra 4.

Pretty great climb, though. Didn't wear a shirt and my shoulder and back got pretty thrashed on the end. Long and good climb. Apr 20, 2012
NickinCO
colorado
  5.10+
NickinCO   colorado
  5.10+
Guide book is way off on this one (bloom 1st edition) it calls for one #4. To properly protect you would need a 4, 5, and 6 or you risk a fall onto a ledge 60ish feet up. Would have been better with the proper gear. Oct 22, 2012
Ryan Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10+
Ryan Nelson   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10+
I whipped on the sandy offwidth a few months back. Almost decked. Scary shit. Lay back this thing and bring a #6 Jun 25, 2013
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
  5.10+
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
  5.10+
I agree with the previous comments. I found the top to be really sandy and hard to get my body in. I would take at least a 4,5 and a 6. Nov 29, 2015
Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
Matt Pierce   Denver, CO
The Bloom IC guide has the gear listed wrong - the #3's are listed twice and there is no mention of a #6. This route has a few spots wider than a #4 - we found 2 #5's handy and a #6 at the very top seemed a requirement for me - was glad we had one. Nov 1, 2016
As others have mentioned, the guidebook's gear recommendation seems flawed, perhaps it is based on old camalot sizing? In modern sizes the route runs 2 #2, 4 #3, 2 #4, 1 #5, 1 #6 (spooky top without the 6). The OW pod may be a little dusty, but it's great fun! Apr 1, 2018

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