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Blue Sun

5.10-, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 940 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Way Rambo
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Description

Classic, perfect, splitter hands on the wall just around the corner from Way Rambo.

Protection

Camalots: 3x #2 & 3x #3

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A great climb to study up on some crack technique
[Hide Photo] A great climb to study up on some crack technique
Paco on Blue Sun
[Hide Photo] Paco on Blue Sun
Les leading Blue Sun
[Hide Photo] Les leading Blue Sun
Photo by JJ Dreier
[Hide Photo] Photo by JJ Dreier
Gabe getting perfect hands
[Hide Photo] Gabe getting perfect hands
Italian climber, Marcello, placing yellow then blue, yellow then blue.
[Hide Photo] Italian climber, Marcello, placing yellow then blue, yellow then blue.
Jason Albert on his first lead in the creek.. looking good
[Hide Photo] Jason Albert on his first lead in the creek.. looking good
That's the size you need!As good as it gets:)
[Hide Photo] That's the size you need!As good as it gets:)
Blue chains<br>
[Hide Photo] Blue chains
Don on Blue Sun.
[Hide Photo] Don on Blue Sun.
Aric resting after a good sustained stretch
[Hide Photo] Aric resting after a good sustained stretch

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Danny Inman
Arvada
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] This route is great! The curvature of the crack at the bottom makes this one interesting. The hands are perfect. This is a must if you are at Way Rambo. Mar 24, 2005
SirVato SirVato
Boulder
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] Definitely a sweet pitch. Awesome warm up!! Shady in the morning May 12, 2006
[Hide Comment] From the anchor, with a directional or two you can toprope the dihedral to the left. Probably 12- with some really desperate tip-liebacking. Jan 29, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Austin, TX
[Hide Comment] The dihedral to the left was a really fun TR, did it back in '04 or'05. I would agree that .12- seems about right. Wonder if it's been lead? Aug 18, 2008
BretWith1T
Laramie, Wyoming
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] I was kinda hung over when I got on this, but it was still a highlight of the trip. If you have kinda largish hands, DO NOT MISS THIS CLIMB! It's a beautiful little cruise on beautiful rock. Sep 21, 2008
[Hide Comment] sweet route! I don't have large hands and I thought the jams were perfect. The last 10-15 feet after the rest I thought the hands would be difficult because the hands would be big, but I didn't have any problems. All the jams felt great. On supercrack the hands definately get a little rattely. Dec 3, 2008
[Hide Comment] Spectacular route. YMMV, but I'd go a bit heavier on #2 camalots and lighter on the #3's (maybe 4 or 5 and 2, respectively). Nov 3, 2009
AOSR
Green Mnt
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] i agree with bret. in hindsight i'd have brought and extra 2 and no 3s.
stellar line. great for learning how to climb splitters. Mar 8, 2011
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
 
[Hide Comment] Super fun route. Wish it was longer. Solid hands for me the whole way (blues and yellows) with a nice foot hold a bit before the anchor to rest on. Great route and a really cool area. Apr 20, 2012
[Hide Comment] What a great route! Beautiful to look at and to climb. I found it easier than chocolate corner, a great intro to creek climbing if you have large-ish hands. Might be more fun than supercrack, they're very similar in size but this one seems less mechanical. Apr 4, 2013
KB
Moab, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Even as a small handed human who prefers jamming #1 sized cracks, I couldn't believe how secure and enjoyable the jamming felt on this route. Loved it! The crux for me was probably the top 5 feet where it widens slightly, but you have a rest before it and bomber foot jams. Definitely a must-do, for beginner leaders especially. Dec 4, 2015
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] This is the hand crack I was looking for. Supercrack was a bit baggy, but Blue Sun was perfect! Plus, there's some funny chimney moves to be done down low, which rocked. I brought more #2s than the 2013 guide book suggested.... Dec 11, 2018
michalm
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] This is a great route to solo naked. Jun 19, 2019
Sam S
Missoula, MT
 
[Hide Comment] So much fun

I placed 2 #3's up high and they were pretty over-cammed Dec 14, 2022
Mark Webster
Tacoma
[Hide Comment] Super fun route! Even my friend with smaller hands loved it. I took seven yellows and 5 blues, might not have placed all the blues. This route felt much more enjoyable than either TIHC or Supercrack. Both of those have mini cruxes at roofs and or bulges, while this is simply carefree hand jamming the entire way. It also zig zags a bit, so you get some nice rests. There is a fair amount of variation in the crack size so if it doesn't fit you in one spot, move your hand up or down and it will. Great rest, almost hands free, before the final push. May 8, 2023