Type: Trad, Aid, 140 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bjornstad, Hudock, Hollister
Page Views: 1,975 total · 11/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Sep 17, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This supposedly goes free, but lots of folks seem to doubt it. After climbing it I wonder too. Satan's Revenge looks like a much better free climb on this rock, and this route is a good moderate aid outing.

P1: Start from the notch between the tower and the rimrock behind it. Make a spooky free move onto a ledge - a fall would be bad, and a boost from your partner helps. Clip a couple of old hangerless bolts to a fat bolt over the roof, a few more closely spaced hangerless bolts, and then free climb right to a crack. Fingers and hands lead to a good ledge with a possible belay.

P2: Climb a thin crack past some old hangerless bolts(why?) until the crack jogs left and widens to 4 Camalot size. If you hate this size two big pieces are prudent. The belay is about 10' below the top of the tower and consists of one drilled angle and one crappy bolt. Getting to the top is an easy scramble on sugary rock.

One double rope rap gets you to the ground. An OK route with lots of old unnecessary bolts, but the summit is cool.

Protection

6 rivet hangers, a double set of cams from TCUs to 4 Camalots. If you are breaking this into 2 pitches, 3 and 3.5 Camalots are needed to set up a belay.

Photos