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Routes in Disappearing Angel

Disappearing Angel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Satan's Revenge T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
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Type: Trad, Aid, 140 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bjornstad, Hudock, Hollister
Page Views: 1,685 total · 10/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Sep 17, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This supposedly goes free, but lots of folks seem to doubt it. After climbing it I wonder too. Satan's Revenge looks like a much better free climb on this rock, and this route is a good moderate aid outing.

P1: Start from the notch between the tower and the rimrock behind it. Make a spooky free move onto a ledge - a fall would be bad, and a boost from your partner helps. Clip a couple of old hangerless bolts to a fat bolt over the roof, a few more closely spaced hangerless bolts, and then free climb right to a crack. Fingers and hands lead to a good ledge with a possible belay.

P2: Climb a thin crack past some old hangerless bolts(why?) until the crack jogs left and widens to 4 Camalot size. If you hate this size two big pieces are prudent. The belay is about 10' below the top of the tower and consists of one drilled angle and one crappy bolt. Getting to the top is an easy scramble on sugary rock.

One double rope rap gets you to the ground. An OK route with lots of old unnecessary bolts, but the summit is cool.

Protection

6 rivet hangers, a double set of cams from TCUs to 4 Camalots. If you are breaking this into 2 pitches, 3 and 3.5 Camalots are needed to set up a belay.

Photos

i believe kevin chase freed this at the same time tom gilje put up satans revenge. Oct 5, 2005
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
I was updating the anchor this morning and I suffered a loss. After drilling the first hole, I absentmindedly clipped my drill into the wrong piece of sling on the anchor... it was only tied in with an overhand or something. Anyway, Hanoi-Hilti-II took the 100 footer. He is no more.
So, there is one 1/2 inch by 4 inch stainless with chain at the anchor... it works with the ratty slings and is certainly stronger than the 1/4 inch stardrive and baby angle that is the previous anchor.

The route is ok... nice views. A double set is plenty and I dont think extra 5's are necessary. A single 60 meter rope will get you down. Mar 25, 2008
paul bucher
moab, utah
 
paul bucher   moab, utah
 
way fun stuff. we had my wife drop us off so as not to leave a car parked in front of all the private property. about an hour to hike in from the right. went at about 5.9 C1 for us. a rack of aliens would be sweet. i only placed three stoppers. two 4s are not mando but nice. my partner bondo said about half the rivets were loose in the hole. looks like 2 rivets on pitch 2 were missing and a pin on pitch 1. i was to puckered to notice. 3 and 3 1/2 for the belay. single 70 got us down. good stuff if your into this sort of thing. thanks sam for the sacrifice. the one bomber bolt is real nice since the other stuff sort of sucks. free??? doubtful. Oct 21, 2012
Mark Hammond
Eldorado Springs, CO
Mark Hammond   Eldorado Springs, CO
One 60M rope will get you down. Oct 9, 2015

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