All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Moab Rim Area > Disappearing Angel

Disappearing Angel

Name: Disappearing Angel
Rating: 2.1

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British C1

Routes in Disappearing Angel

	Disappearing Angel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
	Satan's Revenge T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

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Type:	Trad, Aid, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
GPS:	38.57496, -109.55127
FA:	Bjornstad, Hudock, Hollister
Page Views:	3,450 total · 13/month
Shared By:	Andrew Gram on Sep 17, 2004
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

This supposedly goes free, but lots of folks seem to doubt it. After climbing it I wonder too. Satan's Revenge looks like a much better free climb on this rock, and this route is a good moderate aid outing.

P1: Start from the notch between the tower and the rimrock behind it. Make a spooky free move onto a ledge - a fall would be bad, and a boost from your partner helps. Clip a couple of old hangerless bolts to a fat bolt over the roof, a few more closely spaced hangerless bolts, and then free climb right to a crack. Fingers and hands lead to a good ledge with a possible belay.

P2: Climb a thin crack past some old hangerless bolts(why?) until the crack jogs left and widens to 4 Camalot size. If you hate this size two big pieces are prudent. The belay is about 10' below the top of the tower and consists of one drilled angle and one crappy bolt. Getting to the top is an easy scramble on sugary rock.

One double rope rap gets you to the ground. An OK route with lots of old unnecessary bolts, but the summit is cool.

Protection

6 rivet hangers, a double set of cams from TCUs to 4 Camalots. If you are breaking this into 2 pitches, 3 and 3.5 Camalots are needed to set up a belay.