Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Dave Anderson
Page Views: 4,335 total · 24/month
Shared By: Louis Arevalo on May 29, 2004 with updates from Johnny Ringo
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

This is a right facing dihedral with an obvious roof about 25 feet up, left of Old Bushmills and right of Lite Not Solid. Scramble up large boulder close to the start of Bushmills and belay from block at the base of the climb. Climb 25 ft of good hands to roof. Traverse to lip, pull past lip and enjoy tight hands and off fingers for 60 ft. after 60 feet the dihedral throws a tightening bulge for about ten feet(crux). Once past the bulge keep it together for the varied climbing to the anchors. One of the cleanest routes in Pine Canyon. Doable with a single 70 meter rope ONLY if belaying from high up on pillar/boulder.

Protection

Numerous pieces in the tight hands rattly fingers range. Handful of hands and a few down to a blue tcu and a few up to a 3.5 camalot. Two bolt anchor.

Photos

crackroach
  5.11b
crackroach  
  5.11b
One of my favorite climbs in the Swell. Nice, varied, pumpy. Just watch for rope drag around the first big roof. A good trick is to lead the first part on one rope with lockers on the harness. Then drop that rope and lead the rest with the second rope. Sep 27, 2004
The FA of this was also done by the late Dave Anderson Jun 6, 2008
Brendan N
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Brendan N   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
way better than the incredible handcrack.

One trick to prevent the rope from pushing your gear into the crack below the roof is to jam a tight #4 Gray Camalot right at the lip. There is a notch that keeps the #4 from being pushed backwards.

use a 70meter rope

amazing climb. Mar 23, 2011
notmyname
Sandy, UT
notmyname   Sandy, UT
Amazing.
I'll throw in some useful gear / rope beta.
6 each green and red camalots, 2 gold, 2 blue (can save one blue for higher up in the business). Nothin else except maybe a purple .75 at the tippy top.

Instead of fixing a rope below the roof etc (too much screwing around), or jamming a tight #4 (you could get f'd), put a long sling up the initial corner, and back clean through the roof. You;ll be glad you did it that way since it saves you your rope getting pinned or having to do some serious dicking around to follow or rappel it.

My 70m did not come close to reaching. Mar 5, 2012
Courtney Pace   Sandy
70 M works if belaying up on big ledge. Crux is a a section of .75's up towards the top. The last 20 feet is trivial even though it looks hard from below. .5 is nice to have up top Feb 9, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
#4 camalot In the roof frogged our rope and pinned it in the crack. Wouldn’t advise that strategy. My rack was 4-5 green and red camalots, 3 gold camalots, and 3 #3 camalots. A single .5 for the very top is optional. 2 almost no hand rests in the upper dihedral make this pretty onsightable for the standard 5.11 climber despite its length. As good as it gets crack climbing. Nov 24, 2017
Johnny Ringo
Tuscon
  5.11c
Johnny Ringo   Tuscon
  5.11c
If using a 70m rope, you must belay on top of the pillar/boulder. Even belaying from this high, a 70m barely reaches. It is absolutely essential to tie knots in the end of your 70 m rope as my belayer noticed the end of the rope only 1 foot from passing through the gri-gri... close call.. Nov 12, 2018