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Reign of Terror
5.11a,
Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.7 from 18
votes
FA: Jim Dunn and Kyle Copeland
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> Kane Springs Ca…
> Predator Tower
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Pitch 1- The route starts up the south side of the tower and climb up mud stone to a obvious crack past ledges to a single piton belay.
Pitch 2- Climb mud stone to piton and traverse right to a crack, climb crack and you are on top.
Protection
Standard Desert Rack
[Hide Photo] Radek taking the lead on Predator Tower.
[Hide Photo] George Armstrong and Greg Epperson on the approach. Photo by Todd Gordon.
[Hide Photo] Paul climbing the 1st pitch.
[Hide Photo] This is crux of the climb. Flaring crack with a fist jam just a little to deep.
SLC, UT
Estes Park
Moab, UT
moab, utah
I second the comment about the "weirdness". My buddy and I went to try and climb Predator today but it ended up being a bust. Here's what happened:
We hiked across "the field" heading from Kane Creek rd directly to Predator Tower, and about 200-300m before the tower we encountered a series of No Trespassing signs. They were all supported by rocks stacked about 2 ft high (sort of like a big cairn) and all read "Posted No Trespassing, Keep Out". The signs were lined up in a row heading south-north, as if they were a fence. We walked along the line and noticed the signs changed directions, going from south-north, to east-west, towards Predator. The signs ran up the hill toward Predator, but slightly to the left (south) of the tower. Could this mean the parcel of land being blocked off doesn't contain Predator Tower? If anyone knows please let us know.
Another element adding to the weirdness: there is a trailer and teepee about 200 yards to the north of the no trespass signs. It even looked like someone may have erected something near the trailer to appear as a person standing watch. Maybe I was being paranoid, but I definitely felt like someone was watching us from that trailer. Who knows.
I don't know wtf is going on out there, but I would love to speak with the land owner and sort things. Pretty weird though, I thought Mr K was overacting at first, but now I get it. something is going on out there and I don't want to know what it is or if Predator is even worth climbing given the circumstances. Feb 22, 2014
Word on the street is that Predator is actually NOT on the weird private property marked off by all the signs.
Apparently the guy who owns that property is different from the people who have the trailer and Teepee you will see off to the right (north?) when approaching the tower.
My buddy and I were planning on going back out there at some point soon. I can't speak 100% of the safety/legality/"kosherness" of climbing Predator, but it seems like it should go.
I would still use caution/expect potential weirdness. Mar 18, 2014
Boulder, CO
Grand Junction
We used a #5 cam for the first pitch crux, which was extremely awkward. A #6 cam is not needed if you don't have it. A two drilled angle anchor on top of pitch one is in good shape. Pitch two has one poor looking drilled angle and a bomber bolt to protect a fairly loose section. Classic desert funky bulges follow. Good two bolt anchor on top with chain. Single 70m rope down the route will get you to the ground from the top, no need for two ropes. 1 60m is too short, but you could do a second rap off pitch 1 anchors, but there isn't any cord/chain there. Nov 11, 2020