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Reign of Terror

5.11a, Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.7 from 18 votes
FA: Jim Dunn and Kyle Copeland
Utah > Southeast Utah > Kane Springs Ca… > Predator Tower
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

Pitch 1- The route starts up the south side of the tower and climb up mud stone to a obvious crack past ledges to a single piton belay.
Pitch 2- Climb mud stone to piton and traverse right to a crack, climb crack and you are on top.

Protection

Standard Desert Rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

scary good fun
[Hide Photo] scary good fun
Radek on top, Shirley climbing, and Paul relaxing.
[Hide Photo] Radek on top, Shirley climbing, and Paul relaxing.
starting up pitch 2
[Hide Photo] starting up pitch 2
George Armstrong at the crux.<br>
Photo by Todd Gordon.
[Hide Photo] George Armstrong at the crux. Photo by Todd Gordon.
South side of Predator Tower
[Hide Photo] South side of Predator Tower
1.5 piton Anchor
[Hide Photo] 1.5 piton Anchor
Looking east from summit towards car graveyard
[Hide Photo] Looking east from summit towards car graveyard
just below the business
[Hide Photo] just below the business
Radek taking the lead on Predator Tower.
[Hide Photo] Radek taking the lead on Predator Tower.
George Armstrong and Greg Epperson on the approach.   Photo by Todd Gordon.
[Hide Photo] George Armstrong and Greg Epperson on the approach. Photo by Todd Gordon.
Paul climbing the 1st pitch.
[Hide Photo] Paul climbing the 1st pitch.
This is crux of the climb. Flaring crack with a fist jam just a little to deep.
[Hide Photo] This is crux of the climb. Flaring crack with a fist jam just a little to deep.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] I French freed the first pitch at about 5.8 C1 - kudos to you if you can lead that! The second pitch is very enjoyable 5.8. Cool little tower! It disappears against the background! Oct 29, 2007
Brad Brandewie
Estes Park
Eric Odenthal
Moab, UT
 
[Hide Comment] First pitch is killer. #6 camelot protects the crux. a few #1 camalots after and a few hand and larger pieces for the rest. the first pitch was sandy after the rain, but cleaned up well.. solid rock, great moves, awesome exposure. two solid pitches for a small tower. you can TR the route in one pitch from the anchor and two 60m ropes. what a sick valley!!!!! Oct 10, 2008
paul bucher
moab, utah
 
[Hide Comment] funnest dirt pile you will ever climb. we went at about 5.9 c1. triple on the red camies. got a super bombastic 3 1/2 camalot below and to back up the 6. the second pitch is a blast. a couple long runners were nice. good stuff!! Oct 15, 2012
[Hide Comment] Tried to climb this tower a few yesterday, however, while walking across the flats we ran into some interesting people. They told us that as of a year or two ago someone (supposedly their friend) bought the land that the tower is on and they weren't sure if he wanted people climbing it. It seemed like something else was going on around that area that they were trying to keep us away from, but we stayed clear anyway. Two people (and probably more), walking around shoeless, in the middle of the desert, at 8:00 in the morning, seemed like a good reason to not climb the tower. If anyone has more information on if this tower is still climbable, that would be nice to know. As of now, I'm a little scared to go back. Not necessarily because of the private land, but because something really weird was going on out there and I don't really know if I want to find out. Feb 17, 2014
[Hide Comment] @ Mr. K

I second the comment about the "weirdness". My buddy and I went to try and climb Predator today but it ended up being a bust. Here's what happened:

We hiked across "the field" heading from Kane Creek rd directly to Predator Tower, and about 200-300m before the tower we encountered a series of No Trespassing signs. They were all supported by rocks stacked about 2 ft high (sort of like a big cairn) and all read "Posted No Trespassing, Keep Out". The signs were lined up in a row heading south-north, as if they were a fence. We walked along the line and noticed the signs changed directions, going from south-north, to east-west, towards Predator. The signs ran up the hill toward Predator, but slightly to the left (south) of the tower. Could this mean the parcel of land being blocked off doesn't contain Predator Tower? If anyone knows please let us know.

Another element adding to the weirdness: there is a trailer and teepee about 200 yards to the north of the no trespass signs. It even looked like someone may have erected something near the trailer to appear as a person standing watch. Maybe I was being paranoid, but I definitely felt like someone was watching us from that trailer. Who knows.


I don't know wtf is going on out there, but I would love to speak with the land owner and sort things. Pretty weird though, I thought Mr K was overacting at first, but now I get it. something is going on out there and I don't want to know what it is or if Predator is even worth climbing given the circumstances. Feb 22, 2014
[Hide Comment] So here's the deal:

Word on the street is that Predator is actually NOT on the weird private property marked off by all the signs.

Apparently the guy who owns that property is different from the people who have the trailer and Teepee you will see off to the right (north?) when approaching the tower.

My buddy and I were planning on going back out there at some point soon. I can't speak 100% of the safety/legality/"kosherness" of climbing Predator, but it seems like it should go.

I would still use caution/expect potential weirdness. Mar 18, 2014
Matt G
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Fun little tower! Access is fine - skirt to the right around the no trespassing signs. Oct 4, 2015
[Hide Comment] Gear rack for a very safe lead would be 1 #.75, 3 #1, 1 #2, 1 #3, 1 #4, 1 #5, and about 6 slings. The anchors for this route are bomber and the second pitch has two great pitons. The summit register needs a new pen. Access is fine. Nov 27, 2016
Spencer Weiler
Grand Junction
[Hide Comment] Approach: we elected to park at the Ledges A campground(first one on the right as Kane creek opens up into open valley) rather than try the road approach(through gate with "no camping" sign past the private property. We had to bushwack through some really thick tamarisk using the trampled cow paths to find our way through, then cross countried it on more cow trails directly the base of the tower. We ended up skirting a what appears to be habitated bus on the left, but avoided crossing through the dense car graveyard and delapidated housing dump. Many no trespassing signs were seen, but we quietly went about our climb and didn't see anybody or have any issues despite plenty of racket coming from the eyesore that is that private property.

We used a #5 cam for the first pitch crux, which was extremely awkward. A #6 cam is not needed if you don't have it. A two drilled angle anchor on top of pitch one is in good shape. Pitch two has one poor looking drilled angle and a bomber bolt to protect a fairly loose section. Classic desert funky bulges follow. Good two bolt anchor on top with chain. Single 70m rope down the route will get you to the ground from the top, no need for two ropes. 1 60m is too short, but you could do a second rap off pitch 1 anchors, but there isn't any cord/chain there. Nov 11, 2020