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Routes in Predator Tower

Reign of Terror T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Dunn and Kyle Copeland
Page Views: 2,380 total, 14/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Mar 8, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1- The route starts up the south side of the tower and climb up mud stone to a obvious crack past ledges to a single piton belay.
Pitch 2- Climb mud stone to piton and traverse right to a crack, climb crack and you are on top.

Protection

Standard Desert Rack
Michael Dom  
 
Gear rack for a very safe lead would be a .75, 3 #1, 1 #2, 1 #3, 1 #4, 1 #5, and about 6 slings. The anchors for this route are bomber and the second pitches has two great pitons. The summit register needs a new pen. Access is fine. Nov 27, 2016
Matt Glue
Boulder, CO
Matt Glue   Boulder, CO
Fun little tower! Access is fine - skirt to the right around the no trespassing signs. Oct 4, 2015
So here's the deal:

Word on the street is that Predator is actually NOT on the weird private property marked off by all the signs.

Apparently the guy who owns that property is different from the people who have the trailer and Teepee you will see off to the right (north?) when approaching the tower.

My buddy and I were planning on going back out there at some point soon. I can't speak 100% of the safety/legality/"kosherness" of climbing Predator, but it seems like it should go.

I would still use caution/expect potential weirdness. Mar 18, 2014
@ Mr. K

I second the comment about the "weirdness". My buddy and I went to try and climb Predator today but it ended up being a bust. Here's what happened:

We hiked across "the field" heading from Kane Creek rd directly to Predator Tower, and about 200-300m before the tower we encountered a series of No Trespassing signs. They were all supported by rocks stacked about 2 ft high (sort of like a big cairn) and all read "Posted No Trespassing, Keep Out". The signs were lined up in a row heading south-north, as if they were a fence. We walked along the line and noticed the signs changed directions, going from south-north, to east-west, towards Predator. The signs ran up the hill toward Predator, but slightly to the left (south) of the tower. Could this mean the parcel of land being blocked off doesn't contain Predator Tower? If anyone knows please let us know.

Another element adding to the weirdness: there is a trailer and teepee about 200 yards to the north of the no trespass signs. It even looked like someone may have erected something near the trailer to appear as a person standing watch. Maybe I was being paranoid, but I definitely felt like someone was watching us from that trailer. Who knows.


I don't know wtf is going on out there, but I would love to speak with the land owner and sort things. Pretty weird though, I thought Mr K was overacting at first, but now I get it. something is going on out there and I don't want to know what it is or if Predator is even worth climbing given the circumstances. Feb 22, 2014
Tried to climb this tower a few yesterday, however, while walking across the flats we ran into some interesting people. They told us that as of a year or two ago someone (supposedly their friend) bought the land that the tower is on and they weren't sure if he wanted people climbing it. It seemed like something else was going on around that area that they were trying to keep us away from, but we stayed clear anyway. Two people (and probably more), walking around shoeless, in the middle of the desert, at 8:00 in the morning, seemed like a good reason to not climb the tower. If anyone has more information on if this tower is still climbable, that would be nice to know. As of now, I'm a little scared to go back. Not necessarily because of the private land, but because something really weird was going on out there and I don't really know if I want to find out. Feb 17, 2014
paul bucher
moab, utah
 
paul bucher   moab, utah
 
funnest dirt pile you will ever climb. we went at about 5.9 c1. triple on the red camies. got a super bombastic 3 1/2 camalot below and to back up the 6. the second pitch is a blast. a couple long runners were nice. good stuff!! Oct 15, 2012
First pitch is killer. #6 camelot protects the crux. a few #1 camalots after and a few hand and larger pieces for the rest. the first pitch was sandy after the rain, but cleaned up well.. solid rock, great moves, awesome exposure. two solid pitches for a small tower. you can TR the route in one pitch from the anchor and two 60m ropes. what a sick valley!!!!! Oct 10, 2008
More photos and a TR at www.piquaclimber.net Feb 18, 2008
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
I French freed the first pitch at about 5.8 C1 - kudos to you if you can lead that! The second pitch is very enjoyable 5.8. Cool little tower! It disappears against the background! Oct 29, 2007