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Routes in The Weasel Formation

Belfry Tower. Hells Bells. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Devastator Tower T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Horus Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Little Weasel Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Live Free or Die Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Ozymandias T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Rooster, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Sodizin Tower. Bat out of Hell. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2
Type: Trad, Aid, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross Layne Potter.. Mar 19 2004
Page Views: 925 total, 6/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Mar 18, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The route is on the south face of The Pinnacle, about 150' left of the Howe/Garrents "Pinnacle South Face Route". The route climbs the very obvious open book corner to the Rooster shaped block that can been seen from as far away as I70. The route is a classic high adventure sandstone climb with some quite awkward aid and free moves.The route climbs up a monster groove which is a tad dangerous as if any rock is dislodged it is most likely end up in your seconds lap or worse.

P1) Just out from the corner follow the thin left-angling crack past a small roof with a bolt, and then up right via ledges and short cracks to anchors. 120' C2 5.8.
P2) The cracks improve for awhile then close up(2 #1 angles). 80' C2 A1 5.8.
P3) Continue up the corner passing 4 bolts at a blank section to a hanging belay. 100' C2 5.8.
P4) Go up the left trending corner with aid and free moves(2 bolts) to an obvious fork lightning 3" crack. Pull out left and climb about 40' to the summit rim. The rap/anchors are situated in a very large block just below the rim . The last 30' or so of climbing to the anchors is quite loose 100' C2 5.7R.

FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter. March 19 2004.

Protection

About 7 bolts were placed for aid in blank sections , Two #1 angles. Three sets of cams from Alians to two #5 and one #6 friends. Extras of.05 and #1 friends.Two 200' ropes
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
No known second ascent as of June 2010 Jun 18, 2010
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Note .... The Discription into this area of the Weasel, Breezway, Pinnacle.in the Desert Rock III is incorrect .. Should read . Drive 6.1 miles (NOT 2.2) south from the San Rafael River bridge to a road on the right (west) with a cattle guard . Go 1 mile take road on right . Go 6/10 mile take road on left . Go 1.8 miles to end of road and camp site . Path up to the formations up the talis on right. Oct 12, 2004