Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in The Weasel Formation
|Belfry Tower. Hells Bells. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1|
|Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1|
|Devastator Tower T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Horus Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1|
|Little Weasel Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1|
|Live Free or Die Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2|
|Ozymandias T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2|
|Rooster, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2|
|Sodizin Tower. Bat out of Hell. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1|
|Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Paul Ross Layne Potter.. Mar 19 2004|
|Page Views:||925 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||USBRIT Ross on Mar 18, 2004|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionThe route is on the south face of The Pinnacle, about 150' left of the Howe/Garrents "Pinnacle South Face Route". The route climbs the very obvious open book corner to the Rooster shaped block that can been seen from as far away as I70. The route is a classic high adventure sandstone climb with some quite awkward aid and free moves.The route climbs up a monster groove which is a tad dangerous as if any rock is dislodged it is most likely end up in your seconds lap or worse.
P1) Just out from the corner follow the thin left-angling crack past a small roof with a bolt, and then up right via ledges and short cracks to anchors. 120' C2 5.8.
P2) The cracks improve for awhile then close up(2 #1 angles). 80' C2 A1 5.8.
P3) Continue up the corner passing 4 bolts at a blank section to a hanging belay. 100' C2 5.8.
P4) Go up the left trending corner with aid and free moves(2 bolts) to an obvious fork lightning 3" crack. Pull out left and climb about 40' to the summit rim. The rap/anchors are situated in a very large block just below the rim . The last 30' or so of climbing to the anchors is quite loose 100' C2 5.7R.
FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter. March 19 2004.