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Routes in Battle of the Bulge Buttress

3 Strikes You're Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Air Swedin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Battle of the Bulge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Baby, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bloombagged Again T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cal and Andy's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cave Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Christmas Tree T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crack Attack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Readout T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Disco Machine Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dogs in Space T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Down in Albion T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Elbow Vices T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hole in the Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jagged Wedge, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Battle, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Like a Prayer T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Mayes, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Also Rises, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Machine, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Our Piece of Real Estate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pigs In Space T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quarter of a Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Railroad Tracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ruby's Cafe T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ruins Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Seppuku Flake T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedin-Ringle T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Think Pink T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed RF hands to tips T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warm-up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,249 total, 19/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 26, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Access Note

Do Not Climb



The BLM has requested that climbers no longer climb this route for archaeological preservation reasons.



Description

One of the bigger sandbags at Indian Creek? Felt harder to me than most of the 5.11 thin hand corners at Battle of the Bulge.

1st route to the right of Jane Fondas, directly left of the "indian ruins". Steep tips liebacking off the deck, to wide fingers liebacking to get to a rest. A strenuous and pumpy 20 feet of climbing. Cop a decent rest then continue up the narrowing corner, until a tricky traverse right to gain a hand crack. Continue to the chains. The only way I can see justification for "10+" is the fact that its a little shorter than some of the other climbs at Battle of the Bulge. Total length of climb is 60-70 feet.

Protection

Aliens: 2 green, 2 yellow. Friends: 4 #1, 1 #1.5, 1 #2. Camalots: 1 red and 1 yellow.


Do Not Climb

Photos

Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
And watch people throw fits 120' off the deck before downclimbing? It will be amusing at least...
If someone is oblivious to the ruins I doubt they'll take the time to look up and realize there are no anchors. Bolt a sign to the granary. Dec 12, 2013
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
There was a plaque. Someone chucked it. Pull the anchors. Dec 12, 2013
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
All euros can read English... Put a plaque at the base. Dec 12, 2013
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
 
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
 
Euros cant read the guidebook, or our comments. Must pull the anchors or peeps will keep warming up on this one for Ruby's. Dec 11, 2013
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
 
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
 
Crap. Accidentally climbed this the other day... didn't realize it was off limits. I don't recall the plaque for the Fremont Culture Dwelling mentioning the climb -- maybe it could be updated? May 2, 2012
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
Hey Gang
This is a pretty good climb. However, in a meeting with the Friends of Indian Creek and the American Alpine CLub, the BLM requested we stop climbing on it for archeological reasons. This is a valid request as the original ruins at the base were a granary. They have asked that we remove the anchors as well. As there are 10,000 other cracks in the area, lets just let this one be climberless.
Thanks
Sam Nov 10, 2009
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
5.11 for sure. Edit (11/14/09)... damn I didn't know about the access issue when I got on this a few weeks back. I kinda feel like an ass for having climbed this now. I thought the Ruins reference was a joke since that little wind shelter is so recently maintained. Nov 9, 2009
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
This climb is 5.11. With the tricky start and sustained climbing, there is no justification for a 5.10 grade (other than deliberate sandbagging). Great route though and there is rarely anyone on it. Oct 10, 2007
Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11
Kole DeCou   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11
The first move off the ground is 5.11 tips, after that it's nice fingers. Super fun route. Jan 30, 2007
Lee Wilson
Las Vegas, NV
 
Lee Wilson   Las Vegas, NV
 
This is called "Ruins Crack" and is rated 5.11 in the Bloom guide. Great route with nice rests just where you need them. Mar 6, 2006