Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,958 total · 16/month
Shared By: J. Hickok on Feb 6, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

** This is the same route as the one called "Your Mama" in the Mountain Project database. Either the two should be merged or one deleted. The name Your Mama appears to be a new name that was made up, as this climb was previously unnamed.

This is the most obvious left facing corner to the left of Scarface after passing Where's Caruthers.

A splitter crack (immediately right of the corner crack) ascends to a good rest in a chimney that pinches down at the top. At the top of the flared slot/chimney, jam and lieback around a constriction to a decent rest. Continue up to a set of anchors on the left side of a chimney.

The route is a break from the steady plug-and-chug climbing that typifies other routes. We used a 70m rope. Careful with a 60m... it might be close.

Protection

This could be a general recommendation, but take it as a grain of salt and use your judgment and rational based on hand size:

Standard Creek rack.

Photos

If folks are calling this climb 5.11, then it might go down in the books as the easiest 11 at the Creek along with Wounded Knee. Stoppers work well on the upper part of this pitch. Feb 11, 2004
The route described is an Unnamed 5.10+. The route called Desert Sunset is located further left along the wall, around the corner on the part of the Scarface Wall that faces west. It starts in a blocky and sandy corner and moves up and left into a wandering handcrack of varying size. The anchor is visible high on the face above a zigzag crack. The total length of the pitch is somewhere around 120-130 ft and two ropes are necessary to get off it. Oct 25, 2004
Alan Searcy
Pine, Colorado
  5.11a
Alan Searcy   Pine, Colorado
  5.11a
This is a tremendous line with a little bit of everything. I disagree and feel it's pretty freakin hard. Usually when finishing a pitch and I feel like puking I believe it to be 10d or harder. Maybe it was just the uncooked weenies from City Market? This climb is a must do as is sinestra on meat wall. Oct 29, 2004
Mike Willig
5.10+
Mike Willig  
5.10+
As stated in an earlier comment, THIS IS NOT Desert Sunset....in the Bloom book it is an Unnamed 10+. However, it is definitely worth doing! Fantastic hand-jamming and stemming right off the ground and then interesting moves at the top. A great climb to hide from the sun cause it's in the shade all day. Sep 25, 2006
blakeherrington
  5.11
blakeherrington  
  5.11
Ignore the description.

Desert Sunset starts in a blocky/sandy area the bulge to the right of 'SPAM'. Walk down the hillside a little so you can see the splitter cracks at the top before you start.

Following face climbing and edges, up a finger or hand crack in a flake, on he right. It would be possible to go straight up, but rock quality looked a bit better further left toward the corner. Work up/right to the base of the steep twin cracks, where rock quality and cleanliness improves dramatically. Up the twin cracks, over the bulge, then follow the zig-zagging splitters all the way to the chains. Probably 145 pitch'

Our 70m rope did not come close to reaching the ground. Take two ropes. If leading on a single, bring several runners. Anchor is one bolt and one hex pounded into the crack, with webbing and fixed biners.

Rack 2x Yellow Aliens to #3 camalot, with 5x #2 camalots, 3x#1 and #.75 Apr 23, 2009
Aaron Martinuzzi  
  5.11
blake is right on the money with his comment; the description and main photo are inaccurate. in terms of length, my 70 was well short of the ground and we used up at least 75 feet of a second rope getting me down. 150+ feet; likely 50m.

rather than head left to the corner as blake did, i cleaned a few blocks out of the dirty section (immediately beneath a large block marked with an "X") and through a tough, but super fun, stemming/fingerlocking/face climbing section. ditto on blake's gear beta - this route is LONG and will eat up a lot of cams.

as of March 2010, this route is marked by a plaque with the route name, grade (11b), and date of ascent (10-85). the second picture of "tony high on the route" matches the guidebook description. also, the anchor currently consists of a fixed hex and one bolt; the webbing is absolutely nasty, dry, faded mank - the cord coming off the hex was at least 30% ripped as of 3/6/10. bring a knife and some webbing (or extra cams & slings) if you're looking to set up a TR. Mar 7, 2010
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
In Climbing Edition 242 there is an omega pacific link cam ad on p. 52 with a picture of Unknown 10+, and the description states the climb is Desert Sunset, 11. Pretty funny. Jun 1, 2011
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10c
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10c
(Big. Dramatic. Sigh.)

What a mess. I mean the MP database on the Creek—not this particular climb.

The name and the description and even the first picture here are accurate. This unnamed (as far as the Bloom book goes) climb is NOT Sunset nuthin’, and it’s NOT 5.11 and it is NOT a zig-zag crack. Worse, it IS the exact same route also listed on MP in needless duplicate, the climb here called, “Your Moma.”

Like I say. What a mess. ANARCHY! Cats and dogs living together…

Part of the problem here lies in the fact that there were no good corner pictures showing the obvious and unmistakable right-side crack. I've tried to correct that with a few new pics.

Anyways, right or wrong, a very fun, varied, even easy corner climb—easy if’n you use the fat crack on the right. Probably clocks in at 10b or c for those with big mitts. (Unlike Scarface which is 5.impossible.) Send and have fun.

And SOMEONE please let’s get some admin oversight, here. Oct 2, 2012
Brennan Crellin
Millcreek, UT
  5.10+
Brennan Crellin   Millcreek, UT  
  5.10+
For what it's worth, the plaque at the base of this climb says "Pod People 5.10+". Oct 31, 2016
I got the on-sight but it took some grunting. Scarface was a cake walk in comparison. I did not have stoppers but I did have a red and a pink Tri-cam which was perfect at the crux. Apr 27, 2017