Avg: 4 from 15
votes
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
Dolofright: a two pitch face climb up the blunt arete along the right side of Dolomite Spire as seen from the road.
Begin from a comfortable ledge on the notch between Lighthouse Tower and Dolomite Spire (see approach directions for Dolomite).
P1: Hard right off the deck. Climb up and right along an overhanging bulge (protected by three pins) using incut crimps, clip a bolt, and step left along a horizontal to the arete. If you found these moves difficult, get ready. Continue up the face and arete past two more bolts to a good stance immediately below the crux: a really awesome (but reach-dependent?) sequence using two side pulls and (seemingly) no feet. Clip a fourth bolt, perform a difficult mantle, and then run it out a ways along the arete on scary gear (two yellow Aliens in a flaring slot) and scary holds to more bolts and a great belay ledge. Many sections of 5.11 on this pitch.
P2: Climb up off the belay over ledgey terrain and dicey holds 25' to a bolt. Repeat this for 3 more bolts (hardest/scariest move comes about ten feet above the fourth bolt) to an anchor on the summit. Mostly 5.10-. Descent: From a second anchor on the far side of the tower you can get down in one clean rap with double 60m ropes and 10' of downclimbing. You can also stop at the high notch between Dolomite and Big Bend Butte if your ropes are shorter.
Dolofright is an incredible route, especially when you consider that Tom Gilje bolted this thing on lead, but Fred Knapp must have been on Crack when he said that it was the best Wingate face climbing he'd ever done. There are many great, difficult sequences, but they are constantly interrupted by terrifying sections of climbing on flexing holds. Falls are not necessarily clean on this climb, and I felt that both pitches are deserving of an R rating. That said, the position (especially on the lower crux pitch) is awesome and the summit is great, but this is definately a route for true desert rats.
One or possibly two yellow Aliens (or equivalent), one or possibly two #1 Camalots, and a dozen draws/slings. RPs may help psychologically.
Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
The one thing I did appreciate more this time is the quality of climbing - the moves (first pitch at least) are sustained and cerebral. The first pitch probably has at least 4 5.11 cruxes (some of which are safe and some of which aren't). I found a #1 Camalot to be essential, and the yellow alien (and a 0.3 micro camalot) provided some psychological pro.
Next time I will only bring wires, 2 #1 Camalots, a 0.3 Camalot, and quickdraws for this route. Nov 27, 2005
Lander, WY
Over the years I'm sure a few of those things have broken off and rounded
over. As per the R, a lot of routes get one... this route deserves it. Mar 6, 2007
moab, utah
Mammoth, CA
In the summit register Dan Osman says something like:
'Dolofright, more bolts, more cleaning, ok moves, second ascent'
I would guess that the Dolofright has seen one hundred ascents or so since it was put up in the 90s(the summit register would tell a different story). I found that the rock was a little bit friable, but most of the holds were fairly solid. I had also heard about this flake that you had to pull hard on, on the second pitch. After a lot of ascents of this tower I would think the thing is pretty solid if all those people have pulled on it before.
That being said, think about Gilje up there bolting on lead and loving every minute of it.
Although this route is serious and has a reputation(that is why I avoided it for years), I would say that it is one of the best desert face routes that I have done. There is heads-up climbing in a few spots on the first pitch and then easier, but also heads-up climbing on the second pitch. If you are equal to the 11+ grade and you have some experience on sandstone there is no reason that you should avoid this route.
A true desert classic! Dec 16, 2010
A blue totem or blue-yellow offset mastercam would be more solid than a yellow alien up high.
The anchor at the top of the route could use another 1/2" bolt and some chain or fresh cord. The anchor at the top of the first pitch could use chain to replace the tats nest. The anchor at the base of the route at the top of the notch has a new 1/2" SS 5-piece bolt and chain courtesy of the ASCA. Feel free to replace the remaining star drive at this anchor. The route is easily rapped with an 80m rope, and it looks to be possible with a 70m. Apr 1, 2019
North Mitten
I followed Noah on p1 in windy conditions that required timing your movements to avoid gusts. There was not a speck of chalk on the route. The opening moves are thin, fierce and protected by two old pins and a somewhat blind finger cam placement. The rest of the pitch features some reachy moves that taxed my wingspan at 5'10a".
It took me some deliberation to onsight p2. The first bolt off the anchor (old but probably good) is fifteen feet of sandy 5.9+/10- with bad factor-2 potential.
Don't get suckered into trying to place a fingers piece to the right after the bolt; I inspected the flake on rap and it's pretty hollow. Thirty feet of featured 5.9ish slab leads you to the next bolt, whose hanger was literally flapping against the rock in the wind when I clipped it.
I would not trust this bolt to hold a fall; if it failed, the leader would likely bounce off the ledge and factor-2 with certain injury. Even if it held, you're still looking at bad ledgefall. I thought this was the crux of the pitch, as you have to tiptoe several feet above it on thin holds and then grope blindly for the one good hold that keeps the moves 5.10. I up and downclimbed this section several times in the wind before I felt comfortable committing to the move.
The fourth bolt protecting the steeper section is blessedly modern. However, ten feet above it, I broke a handhold and barndoored, only barely catching myself with my other hand. (It hadn't rained in over a week, and I am a card-carrying lieutenant in the wet rock police).
The top rap anchor consists of one modern bolt with tat, and one corded nut placed sideways.
The objective hazards on this route are high, but so is the payoff. Hats off to the FA for bolting this on lead. I would return to lead the first pitch, but I would be very hard-pressed to lead the second again unless that bolt were replaced or I went through an acrimonious divorce. May 10, 2022
Nomad