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Routes in The Weasel Formation

Belfry Tower. Hells Bells. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Devastator Tower T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Horus Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Little Weasel Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Live Free or Die Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Ozymandias T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Rooster, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Sodizin Tower. Bat out of Hell. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2
Type: Trad, Aid, 360 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross, Andy Ross, and Layne Potter
Page Views: 1,108 total, 6/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Mar 12, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The route climbs the south face of Belfry Tower. See photo of tower on the Brits in the Belfry route.

P1) The first pitch follows a good crack system to the top of the pillar down left of the summit. The crack goes over a short roof at about 30'. Follow cracks and grooves past a couple of blocks(2 bolts) to a perfect 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" finishing crack. 160' 5.9 C1. The second followed this pitch free at about 5.11+ apart from a short wide section above the first overhang.
P2) A short easy pitch to a ledge at 35'.
P3) Move down left and then back right to a crack that leads to belays below an overhanging 5" crack. 60' 5.8.
P4) Aid the awkward crack for about 25' and then easier climbing leads into the belfry. 50' 5.6 C1.
P5) Climb the short sqeeze chimney on the north side. 30' 5.7 (this is last section of pitch 3 of Brits in the Belfry).

Descent: Rap down Brits in the Belfry.
FA: Paul Ross, Andy Ross.(var leads), and Layne Potter

Protection

Two sets of Friends with extra 1.5, 2, and 4. Two 5 and 6 Friends. Medium to large stoppers. Two 200' ropes for the rap down the Brits in the Belfry route on the north side.
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
no known second ascent as of June 2010 Jun 18, 2010
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Note to get to this Formation the directions in the guide are incorrect. Should read :- From the San Rafael Bridge go South for 6.1 miles (NOT 2.2) to road on right (west) with cattle guard Go 1 mile take right hand road. Go 6/10 of a mile take left road . go 1.8 miles to end of road and camp site .. Path up talus to the right. Oct 12, 2004