Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Weasel Formation

Belfry Tower. Hells Bells. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Devastator Tower T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Horus Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Little Weasel Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Live Free or Die Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Ozymandias T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Rooster, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Sodizin Tower. Bat out of Hell. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2
Type: Trad, Aid, 310 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Marshall and Paul Ross (var leads)
Page Views: 1,031 total, 6/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Oct 22, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Belfry Tower is located on the east side of the Weasel formation. It is recognised by its double belfry type summit. Two routes have been climbed on this tower. The following route is on the north side. From the approach path to the bottom of the rock(see also description in Wall Street to San Rafael Swell Desert Guide by Eric Bjornstad), walk east passing the south side of Belfry and around the end of the formation until one comes to a very striking fork lighting hand crack on the north side(see photo).

P1) Climb the superb crack to a good ledge and cave with bolt anchors. This will go all free at about 5.11. 120' C1.
P2) Follow grooves and cracks passing double stormed off anchors to a good ledge and bolt belays. 100' 5.9 C1.
P3) Continue up a short offwidth crack, and then climb an unusual squeeze chimney to the summit and a register. 90' 5.8.

FA: Paul Marshall and Paul Ross.

Protection

Two sets of Friends from #1 to #5, with extras from #2 to #3. One #6 could be useful. Set of wires, and two 200' ropes.
Paul S
Fruita, CO
Paul S   Fruita, CO
It's possible to get to the ground in just two rappels on this one. One short one off the top, then a full 200' one to the ground. Nov 7, 2016
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Hi Josh. As far as I know you will have got the third ...Register ? The Other route on there Hells Bells has as far as I know no second ascent as yet .. Good effort hope you had fun .... Cheers Paul Oct 7, 2016
Mickey Guziak
Grand Junction
Mickey Guziak   Grand Junction


Anybody know where the register went? Looked around and inside a cairn that was surely made to store it. Not sure what ascent we got... Oct 6, 2016
Josh Ewing
Bluff, UT
  5.11c
Josh Ewing   Bluff, UT
  5.11c
Did the second ascent of Brits last weekend. We tried to free it, and didn't quite get a couple of moves. It will definitely go free at 11+. The thin crack moves at the end of the first pitch are low percentage when onsighting, due to tricky gear placements. The second pitch feels like solid 5.10 OW, with a sigificant choss factor thrown in between the hard sections. The final pitch is fun OW and squeeze chimeny. I'd probably give that last pitch 5.9.

Also keep in mind that this is an adventure route, despite how clean the first pitch is. The rest of the tower has significant loose rock...so be careful.

There's not much for rap rings or webbing on the rap anchors, so take extra.

Sweet summit....good work Paul, Andy, and Lane. Nov 8, 2005
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Note ...The discription of how to get to this area The Weasel, Breezeway, Pinnacle is incorrect in the guide Desert Rock III. Should be From the San Rafael Bridge drive 6.1 miles (not 2.2) south to a road and cattle guard on the right. Go 1 mile to right turn.Go 6/10 of a mile take road to left.. Continue 1.8 miles to end of road and camp site. Path up to the formations up talis to the right. Oct 12, 2004