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Routes in K Crags

Beer Festival T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Carnivore T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Grand Expedition, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Heart Of Stone T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Marble Slab. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mercury T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Surfing The Swell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tsunami T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tynesider's Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way of the Increpids, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 1400 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross, Layne and Sheriden Potter.March 12/ 2002
Page Views: 1,641 total, 9/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Mar 11, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This is the first route to be climbed on the Eastern Reef Slabs.The FA party thought the climb would be about 600' instead it turned out to be 1400' and the climb had to be rappelled as the back of the slab overhangs about 400'.

P1)The climb starts at the lowest part of a clean white slab down left of the chocolate topped colored wave.(small cairn).The first pro bolt is at about 60'. From here the difficulties increase..two more bolts to belay on ledge to the left.5.9R 140'
P2)Follow crack above then traverse left on a line of flakes until one can climb up between large spikes. Anchor on flake or drilled piton 25' up to right. 5.8R 170'
P3) Straight up the edge above gully to bolt belay. 5.7R 200'
P4) Follow edge to bolt belay 5.6R 200'
P5) Up easy grooves to the hidden garden 5.0 250'
P6) Move about 50' left then climb the white open slab (left of big gully) to drilled piton.5.5R 200'
P7) Just to the left is a thin black dyke which is followed to the black block at the top of the climb. Two bolt anchor . 5.6R 200'.

Only eight pieces of pro was used on the whole route.Gear.. Take a few friends #1 to #3 .Possibly a Hand drill and a few extra bolts to back up single bolt belays as the FA party ran out !Two 60m ropes. The first ascent took 7 hours with a party of three up and down.

Descent:- Rap the route. Below is a photo with 5 routes marked on what we call The Surfing The Swell area . Surfing was the first route climbed on the slabs.....A).Triple Slab Buttress area . B).Sinister Slab.III.6 pitches.5.7R 1200'.C).Suduction of Stone.III.8 pitches.5.7+R.1600'.D).Tsumami III. 6 pitches. 5.9R.1760'. E).Surfing the Swell. III. 7 pitches 5.9R. 1400'F).Fairy Slab.II 3 pitches.5.6x.1000'

Protection

Some Cams ,slings , stoppers,Two 9mm x 200' ropes carry a small bolt kit may be useful!.

Photos

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