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Routes in F Crags

Beach Boy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dune Buggy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Easy Street T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Holy Braille, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
More Madness T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reefer Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Slab Happy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under the Influence. S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Under the Spell S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 1780 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter
Page Views: 87 total · 0/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Apr 2, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The route climbs the large smooth looking elephant back like slab ,see general photo of the Reef on the Mellow Yellow Route._ Drive 3.2 miles from the I.70 entrance to a dirt Rd on the right. This goes in for about 1/4 mile. The Reefer slab is the smooth curved formation well over to the right. about 20 min walk . Starts above a small wash 100' below some prominent red blotches on the rock. Cairn.

P1)The pitch follows indefinite cracks that lead through to black rocks. a cam placement at 60' ,then to a ledge and block belay. 5.8R 150'.
P2) Steep climbing leads to a small bush,then slightly left and back right to join the slanting left leaning crack which is followed to another ledge and block belay. 5.9R 200'
P3) A short 5.7R slab leads to a long ledge.30' _Move belay 60'to the right.
P4) Easier angled slabs leftwards to the dark flake ,then 60' to larger black flake. 5.7R no pro.200'
P5) Straight up from flake on excellent open slab to bolt belay 5.5R no pro. 200'
P6) start angling right at about 5 past 12 to another bolt anchor. 5.4. no pro 200'.
P7)Keep angling right at about 10 past 12 towards black rock below big open groove . Bolt anchor . no pro 5.4. 180'
P8)Up groove to final bolt anchor. 5.0
P9) 4th class slab to fine summit. 400'.

Descent:- Return to final bolt top of P8 . Rap the route to top of P4 . Use bolt out to the right to rap 210' onto easy slab on the long ledge a top P3. On edge of this ledge double anchors to a scramble off left.

Protection

Metoluis one #2 ,one #5 ,one #6 one #8 Slings ,Two 200'x 9mm ropes. May be useful to carry a small bolt kit incase one gets too far off route!!

Photos

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