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Routes in Day Canyon Cragging Routes
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A Pirate's Life for Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Aerobicide T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Alba's Half Price Hand Jams T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Android Waffle Hot Line T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Another Fine Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bee Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Black Widow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Brush Painted Datsun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Christine's Way Buff Saab T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cleaver, The T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Concepcion T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Finger Bandit T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Full Price Fangers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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In the Bushes V0+ 4+ |
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Kentucky Brown Water T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2 |
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Kiss of the Spider Women T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Pocket Rocket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Screaming Deal T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Thicker than Water T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Thicker Than Water (pitch 1) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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What Momma Don't Know T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Working Class Hero T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Carl Diedrich, Copeland, Marabel Loveridge 10/89 |
| Page Views: | 1,937 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Joe Auer on Oct 18, 2003 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route is about a half mile up canyon from Bootleg Tower, on the same side. Look for the twin splitter cracks of the first pitch.
On the second pitch you have a few options. One is to go left straight off the belay into the wide flake/crack. Another is to head straight up and into some fingerlocks. Yet another option is to do what my partner did and head up the fingercrack until it gets real thin and then traverse left into the wide crack. There is some bonafide hand stacking to be reckoned with in the left crack but the right option looks just as hard, but maybe slighty better quality. I didn't check out the upper part of the right variation but I tried the move that my partner avoided by going left into the wideness. It's a long reach to a fingerlock from a pod lieback. This route should lose some of it's sandyness with more ascents.
On the second pitch you have a few options. One is to go left straight off the belay into the wide flake/crack. Another is to head straight up and into some fingerlocks. Yet another option is to do what my partner did and head up the fingercrack until it gets real thin and then traverse left into the wide crack. There is some bonafide hand stacking to be reckoned with in the left crack but the right option looks just as hard, but maybe slighty better quality. I didn't check out the upper part of the right variation but I tried the move that my partner avoided by going left into the wideness. It's a long reach to a fingerlock from a pod lieback. This route should lose some of it's sandyness with more ascents.
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