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Brush Painted Datsun

5.10b/c, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 106 votes
FA: Kyle Copeland?
Utah > Southeast Utah > Potash Rd > Day Canyon > Day Canyon Cragging R…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This curving flake, just to the right of Christine's, features excellent jamming on quality rock. One of the best in Day Canyon.

Protection

Set of cams with extra hand sized pieces.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rich on one of the finest cracks in the Moab area.
[Hide Photo] Rich on one of the finest cracks in the Moab area.
Brush painted Datsun on the right
[Hide Photo] Brush painted Datsun on the right

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Really fun pitch! Crux was a thriller. Jun 16, 2004
Ryan Deppen
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] INcredible Route!!! I thought it was fairly sustained and the end pinches down when it gets overhanging. I thought the crux was going to the chains, kind of funky jamming. Well worth the hike into the beautiful day canyon. 3 stars for sure. Dec 7, 2004
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
[Hide Comment] A single 60m rope just works for the descent (don't worry about what the book says). Mar 31, 2008
Robes
Leavenworth, Washington
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Genius! Sting in the tail. Apr 18, 2014
[Hide Comment] Anyone know anything about a second pitch? Sep 17, 2014
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Amazing route. Worth the hike, especially when combined with Saab next door.

I placed a #0.5 camalot to get up to the ledge. Plus a #3 as a directional for my second on the way down.

The thing will take as many #2 camalots as you can carry. I was happy to have a new BD #4 in the lower pod 10' up the main crack, though it isn't necessary. And then some #1 camalots for the start and finish. Book says #0.75, but I didn't place any. You can get a #3 camalot in a few places as well, but it is pretty much #2s for most of the length.

Felt a bit harder than Incredible Handcrack. Way more sustained, but nothing as pumpy as the overhang on IH. Oct 19, 2014
Nathan Bell
La Grande, Oregon
[Hide Comment] Way fun, do it! The detached flake block in the crack at the start gets solid when you jam. What a great time. Nov 9, 2014
mike h
Front Range, CO
 
[Hide Comment] So much fun.

For the approach, stay in the wash until it becomes slickrock and bouldery, then get on the right/north bench where there's an old road to walk. Take this past the towers and Brush Painted to where the road fades and drops down, then cross the creekbed and go back up left to the climb.

My rack for next time (C4's): #0.5, #0.75, 2x#1, 5-6x#2, #3, #4. You could add/sub some #3 friends, but don't count on many #3 C4 placements. Dec 2, 2014
Irieclimb
Moab, UT
[Hide Comment] Guide book refers to fingers at the top and .75s. I did not place one .75 on the whole route. Go HEAVY on the #2 camalots. (1)#3 and #4 can be useful as well. (2) #1s one for the bottom and one for top. 60m gets you down. Go into the crack direct when you can. Great climb! Apr 15, 2015
Will Vazquez
Grand Junction
[Hide Comment] I got a couple rigid friends stuck at the top of this on 4/1/18. I worked a long time trying to free them, but the best I could do was to get them pointing down so you can clip them on your way up. Hopefully someone else will free them because I don't think I can do it without destroying them. Apr 2, 2018
Megan H
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] The flakes on this climb are hollow sounding and some wiggle, I believe the flake you stand on to the left 1/3 of the way up will break off soon. Otherwise an awesome climb. Definitely take as many #2 c4s as possible. I only took three yellows and back cleaned/walked cams the whole way up. Apr 19, 2019