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Routes in D Crags

Arrowhead, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Easter Prohibition T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lilli's Leap T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rilke's Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shade Runner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trespasser Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Troglodytes Day Out T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 820 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross . Layne Potter
Page Views: 1,325 total, 7/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Jun 5, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

From the I.70 entrance drive 1.8 miles to pull off. Follow the Wash that crosses the road a few yards past the pull off. after about 1/4 mile walk right and enter the slot canyon on its left. Go up the canyon to a cairn below the slab on the left of the canyon. A nice introduction to the slabs on good rock.
P1)Excellent climbing past 3 bolts .From the third bolt move right to the dark brown rock to reach good ledge with small bushes . Bolt anchors 170' 5.8+R..
P2) Climb short slab into a groove on the right. Then back left to another open groove to bolt belay at its top. 200' 5.4R
P3) Climb up the slabs very slightly left to small ledge and bolt anchors. 200' 5.4R..
P4)Do not enter easy looking groove on the left as it leads to poor rock.Climb straight up to shallow ramp directly above the belay and follow towards the summit. 200'5.7R..
P5)A short pitch climbs the left side of the fine summit and register. 5.5....
Descend with 4 long rappels. From the summit one can scramble down left and traverse to the anchors at the top of pitch 4...

Protection

Quick draws ,slings. Friends #1 to #31/2. Two 9mm X 200'ropes.

Photos

Andrew Carson
Wilson, WY
Andrew Carson   Wilson, WY
From the summit register it would appear that the first and second ascent parties were there on the same day, more or less together... call it one ascent, or call it two, whatever makes sense to you.
Paul Horton and I made another ascent on April 6, 2013, replacing the rap slings on the way down. They were badly hammered from sun exposure, as you would expect. We found the climb a rewarding and engaging intro to technical routes here in the Swell. The first pitch would have been a little run-out for me but did not make Paul flinch in the slightest. The pro on the second pitch was uninspiring, and paying attention to route finding was important, as you're looking for bolted anchors... but we found them and enjoyed a good day in a beautiful setting.
And we marched more or less straight across the desert and a big wash to access the canyon, pretty casual approach. We were in an average road vehicle and found a big pull-out/parking area directly in front of the canyon leading to the route. With a truck you might get closer but that's not really necessary.
We picked this climb since it seemed about the right length for our first day, about the right difficulty, and it was reasonably easy to locate. All assumptions proved true. Apr 21, 2013
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
This is possibly only the third ascent since the FA in 2003. Jun 9, 2011
This is a fun route to a very cool little summit. First pitch is pretty spicy in one spot. The rest goes very smoothly. As of 5/14/2011, some of the anchors could use fresh webbing. Jun 4, 2011