All Locations > Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swel… > Eastern Reef Ar… > E Crags (DBC Canyon)
Death by Chocolate
Avg: 3.1 from 25 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1700 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Paul Ross, Layne Potter 13th Sept 2003|
|Page Views:||13,473 total · 76/month|
|Shared By:||USBRIT Ross on Sep 12, 2003|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionLocation: From I.70 entrance drive about 2.1 miles to pull off on right a few yards north of a prominent wash that crosses the road.The chocolate stripped peak is easily visible from here. Follow the wash until the slot canyon below DBC is reached. Enter the slot canyon on its left side. After two scrambling sections the canyon flattens and leads to the foot of the large chocolate slab. A double anchor is located about 70' up the slab,reached by easy scramble on the right. About 35 mins walk from pull off.
P1) From the double anchors head up towards the white rock on the edge. Continue to double anchors. 2 pro bolts.190'.5.6R
P2) Continue up the junction of the chocolate and white rock to anchors on a large ledge.3 pro bolts 2 cams. 180'. 5.6R .RAP from the anchors 80'down to the right of the ledge to reach anchors at the start of P3.
P3) Climb diagonally up right passing a hollow flake(new pro bolt above flake) to another pro bolt and then up right to anchors . 100' 5.8.
P4) Easy slab up into the great red trough to some large boulders.200'5.0
P5) Straight up the big scoop to visible anchors above two small bushes. 200' 5.3.
P6) Follow the excellent chocolate rock band via a flake, the first bolt is at 30'. To anchors . 2 pro bolts. 200' 5.5R.
P7) Another nice pitch up the chocolate band to anchors . 2 pro bolts . 200' 5.4R.
P8) Straight up easy slab to anchors . 1 pro bolt . 200' 5.2R. P9 . More easy slab to Summit anchors. 200' 5.2R.. Scramble up left for about 40'to cairn and register.......
Descent: One can rap to the top of pitch 3 then a 200' rap into the descent canyon. OR 4th class slabs to the south .A little difficult to find,best to rap..
Description to hike as follows: Walk south from the finish of the climb down a ridge then couple of boulder moves up a red step,continue until passed a step across a gap then start descending slabs and shallow grooves.Start trending left(N)to a large clean slab with two long grooved cracks . Slide these continue down through bushes,then move left by a prominent flake .From here leftwards down many slabs and groove scrambles to the start to the start slot canyon. About one hour.