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Routes in M Crags

Commitment T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Cumbria T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fear Not T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Giraffe, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Haste Not T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Jack Russell Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lance-a-Lot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mellow Yellow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Runout Ridge T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
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Type: Trad, 1060 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: 31 March, 2003 Paul Ross, Layne Potter
Page Views: 938 total · 5/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Mar 30, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description [Suggest Change]

This route and the two that follow are situated on a section of the slabs we call Triple Slab Buttress. These climbs give one a good introduction to the type of climbing found on these slabs. Location ... From the I.70 access drive 6.1 miles on the main dirt road to a right turn (this next section requires good clearance). Drive 1.7 miles, then turn right for about 100yds and park. Directly in front will be the Triple Slab Buttress. Mellow Yellow climbs the right hand buttress.Quite a mellow route with only one or two 5.8 moves protected by a bolt.This route has been revised after a third ascent.

P1) Climb directly up dark slabs about 25' out left from the obvious left facing corner/crack. Keep more or less to the edge to double anchor bolts. Some cam pro. 200' 5.5R

P2) Climb the groove above the belay, and then the slab left of the big corner to anchors below a big ledge (20' below the large ledge on the edge of the slab) or Continue to the large ledge and natural belays). 80+' 5.5

P3) From the big ledge, climb the slabs up to the right to a exposed step down into a groove system in the center of the face. Follow to double anchors. 210' 5.5R

P4) Straight up the shallow groove above (pro bolt) the first 20' are tricky, then easier climbing to a bolt belay. 80 5.8

P5) Straight up groove above to bolt anchor. 200' 5.4

P6) 4th class up slabs to summit and register. 200'

Descend the route via rappel. Note. An other more direct rappel is over to the right (north) of the top of pitch 4 descend to a ledge at the top of a groove system. Two 200' raps to 4th class slabs that are scrambled to the right (South) and back to base of the climb.

Protection [Suggest Change]

There is one protection bolt on this climb. Cams: Metolius one #2 and 3, two #5, one #7 and #8. Some medium to large stoppers. Two 60m x 9mm ropes. Slings, and a few quick draws.
Just did the second ascent of this climb. Great climb, continually interesting. Looks like the Flatirons, climbs like the Black Canyon. The rock is the pale stuff, yet is much harder than it appears, and much less sandy than it looks. We were impressed by the runout climbing. The 5.5 third pitch demands way more attention than 5.5 usually does. The fourth pitch is 5.9, and very "R." A couple notes on the description: The second pitch is about 80 feet to the bolts, and then you need to move the belay to the large ledge thirty feet higher, so you do do not run out of rope on the third pitch. On the third pitch traverse below the large flake sitting on the slab. The rack given is about right. Maybe double up on all the cams from 1"-2.5", but you only get good gear on the easy bits anyway.

Lastly, the fine climbing, and quality of route is let down by some poor hardware. Anchors on the tops of the fourth and fifth pitches are currently single bolts. These act as both belay anchors and rappel anchors. One of these is a spinner. A dangerous lead is one thing; you eyeball it good, step up to the plate and do it, or else back down, but rapping off someone else's single bolt on this rock is a bit of a crap shoot. Anyone doing this route should take a couple bolts and a bolt kit to back these up. Apparently there are a few more of these single-bolt rap anchors around these Reef routes. I'm told that Death By Chocolate, Day of Atonement, 1000' of Fun, and the more recent routes all have regular double-bolt anchors. The lower rap anchors, with double bolts, all sport single "American Triangle" pieces of 1/2" webbing. Best expect to have to tidy these up too. Dec 20, 2003
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
If you do back up some of the anchors and take a hand drill suggest you take #1 angles ,as hand drilling in this sandstone can produce a hole too big for regular bolts. Crusher..Pleased you enjoyed the adventure...Cheers Dec 20, 2003
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Layne and I popped up and resolved 'Crushers'conserns with the rap/anchor bolts on the very low angled pitches of 4 and 5 , we added two more 4" bolts ,(blue Rawl), as well a bit more webbing here and there for the nervous .The bolt on Pitch 4 was not a spinner, all it required was a bit of nut tightning . This type of bolt, a pin drive, is excellent in the softer sandstone,and tests out above the blue Rawl type that is often sold in climbing shops.While we were in the area we also did a couple more new rather steeper slab routes ,both are equipped with well placed double 4" bolts . We want to keep you Bolder, I mean Boulder lads happy.......Have a good one....... May 22, 2004
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
After a 3rd ascent on Sept 11th 2009 this route has been revised Sep 11, 2009
Looks like you have to have a recognizable name to get respect in these parts. Mar 5, 2011
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Well Brian think Beach Boys.. Feb 2, 2017

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