PRINT: Rock Climb Capitol Roof, South Central Utah

Capitol Roof

5.11, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3.4 from 5 votes
FA: Mark Bennett Robin Rogan 1984
Utah > S Central Utah > Capitol Reef > Fruita Area > Fruita Environs

Access Issue: Permit Required Details

As of 2020, climbing in Capitol Reef requires a permit: mountainproject.com/forum/t…

Description

This is THE classic route in Capitol Reef. Want to see a picture? Go to the national park's web page and look for "climbing regulations." Basically, the climb goes like this: fingers with precarious rests, to thin hands, to a perfect gold camalot eight foot roof in a small corner, to kind of crumbly big hands.The tough start can be easier done by face climbing some edges from the right, and there is a perfect foot hold right when you need to push up over the roof.The section above the roof kind of takes away from the overall quality of the climb, as it is a bit crumbly. You may want to check the webbing at the anchors.

Protection

can't quite remember, but you'll want everything from yellow metollius to 3.5 camalot

Location

To reach Capitol Roof, drive towards the developed campground in Fruita, and pull off at the hiking trail for Cohab Canyon.

Coordinates for TH: 38.283916, -111.237854

Follow the steep, developed trail up switchbacks. when you get to the Wingate, walk south past the head of a canyon, and THEN look for the roof. Can't miss it.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Andrew Barclay ridin' the kix train

Omg this climb is all time that's forsure

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT

So... Where on earth is this? Just go to Capitol Reef and look for the obvious roof? Sep 21, 2003

Paul Nelson

5.11

woops. sorry about that Andrew. To reach Capitol Roof, drive towards the developed campground, and pull off at the hiking trail for Cohab Canyon. Follow the steep, developed trail up switchbacks. when you get to the Wingate, walk south past the head of a canyon, and THEN look for the roof. can't miss it. Dec 16, 2003

Tristan

The photo that he talks about in the "Details" section can be found at nps.gov/care/climbing.htm May 7, 2004

ben brownell
Yreka, CA

5.11 PG13

Classic, but more from an aesthetic and maybe historical standpoint. Otherwise, just "very good" if that's a meaningful distinction. Turning the roof and 10 feet of airy good hands above it were the most fun climbing. Roof is tight hands, 11. The direct start is an inobvious 10+ boulder move. 6 feet of fist+ wideness up high is not bad, with help from the faces. But the last 12 feet are loose and crumbly. Anchor is two drilled angles in softish rock, with so-so slings. Replacing existing anchors IS legal in CRNP... Sep 8, 2007

Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah

Hmmm...I think Mark and Seth Shaw on the FA? Not sure Robin was around then. Jan 7, 2008

Levi Call
Utah

A #4 was appreciated. A .4 and/or .5 could be used to protect the crux at the ground. Otherwise, doubles to .5-3 with extra 2’s will give you plenty of options. A few slings are helpful and the rope does a decent job of keeping itself out of the crack. Jun 10, 2023