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Trad, Aid, 340 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 2.9 from 7
FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter May 2003
> Moab Area
> Lost World But…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Some interesting situations.Might be free climbable. On the first ascent three falls were taking caused by a few cams ripping out.The top crack is in good rock.The climb is located on the southern end of the Tombstone, about 300' left of The Gift. 3 minute walk from the parking area.Nice camping area.
P1. Climb a left facing groove/crack to a large ledge. Bolt belay 60' 5.7
P2. Enter the groove system via a short overhanging section with a very thin crack. Pass one bolt to more thin crack and follow this to a good ledge and a bolt belay. 85' C2
P3. On the right wall of the big corner follow the 1/2" to 1 1/2" crack with an occasional larger cam to the final 1 1/2" crack in the exposed headwall. 180' 5.9+ C2 Descent.If rapping the route looks awkward there are other raps down the routes to the north
Three sets of Friends up to 3 1/2", two 4s, two 5s. One leeper camhook, 1 set of Stoppers.
[Hide Photo] Myself on the third pitch, some really nice people drove by and took this of me.
[Hide Photo] This was the piece that caught me after a blue alien i was standing on blew out the rock. As you can see it also blew out the rock. Somehow the front two lobes are still engaged! crazyness..