PRINT: Rock Climb Learning Curve, Southeast Utah

Learning Curve

5.7, Trad, Sport, 120 ft (36 m),

Avg: 2.1 from 49 votes
FA: Henderson & Baker '98
Utah > Southeast Utah > Sunshine Wall > Sunshine Wall Routes

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

This route is on the obvious slab towards the north side of the Sunshine Wall. It starts about ten feet right of an obvious crack which runs through a small roof.

A large ledge is reached about 20 feet up. Either go left and scramble up to the ledge, or do a direct start with a bolt (probably 5.8). From the ledge, immediately clip a bolt. Then follow an insipient crack through bolts and occasional gear up the slab to a two-bolt fixed anchor. Rappel with either two ropes or one 70m rope barely reaches the upper ledge.

Protection

Mixed pro and bolts. 5 bolts (with an optional 6th for a direct start). Aliens and small tri-cams for gear. I used a red alien and a #1 tri-cam.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Top out

R. Downer on lead.

learning curve

The route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO

Great route. I think it's important to note that this climb starts up a crack near the center of the wall, and traverses right just before the crack ends, to gain a second crack that starts at that point. May 2, 2012

Skylar Smith

I would recommend doing this with a few cams. It's definently runout if you dont use them. You can barely reach the ledge (about 10-15 feet off the ground) with a 70m rope. May 2, 2012

Walt Barker
Western NC

Very enjoyable route. Most would consider the bolts to be a bit run-out. Luckily, several excellent cam placements appear right when you need them. I put in a #1&2 C3, and several C4,s up to #1. Well thought-out route. Jul 8, 2012

Bryce Mihalevich

Did this route with a 70m starting on the higher ledge (skipping the first bolt). Was able to double rope rap back to the upper belay ledge. A 70m does not make it to the lower ledge. Bring #0.3 to #1 (BD) cams to protect the runouts. Nov 25, 2016

Adam Burr

5.7 PG13

I am no professional. We climbed the lower portion directly below the belay bolt on the upper ledge. We then climbed from this belay bolt. The climb is really fun for beginning crack climbing and minimal exposure. We first tried with a 60m rope. This DOES NOT WORK. use a 70m rope. As stated, you can't belay from the lower ledge and do the climb in one pitch. Also, the length between the first and second bolts is extremely run out with some exposure for beginners. Bring a 1" cam to plug in midway just to be safe. Mar 30, 2019

Eli Delventhal
San Francisco, CA

5.7

Really enjoyed this route, some fun with the little crack on it and great slab climbing. Excellent view from the top. As others have said, 70m rope! Oct 18, 2020

Britt Z
Moab, UT

Fun route! I placed a .3 and a .4 but started from the upper ledge. The .4 was unnecessary because the climbing up high was easy and secure. I’m a shorty (5’2”) and had no problem clipping any bolts or reaching any key holds. Feb 22, 2021