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Wavy Gravy

5.10, Trad, 70 ft,  Avg: 3.2 from 472 votes
Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Scarface
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Way down towards the right end of the Scarface wall (but not quite as far as 'Twitch') lies a sinuous left-facing corner formed by a precarious-looking pedestal with an hourglass shape at the base. It's mostly hands, in some form or other, the whole way, and not very long- maybe 70 feet. Gets great morning sun, a good warm-up.


1 #2, 1 #2.5, several #3, 1 #3.5 friends; a couple runners to minimize drag on the waves

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bryant AuCoin on Wavy Gravy.
[Hide Photo] Bryant AuCoin on Wavy Gravy.
Chris sinking sweet jams on Wavy Gravy
[Hide Photo] Chris sinking sweet jams on Wavy Gravy
helpful stem
[Hide Photo] helpful stem
Dan Leonhard on Wavy Gravy
[Hide Photo] Dan Leonhard on Wavy Gravy
Carling rounding the final bulge on Wavy Gravy
[Hide Photo] Carling rounding the final bulge on Wavy Gravy
Conor, warming up on Wavy Gravy.<br><br><br>
┬ęTyler Gates
[Hide Photo] Conor, warming up on Wavy Gravy. ┬ęTyler Gates
Liz on Wavy Gravy
[Hide Photo] Liz on Wavy Gravy
Charlie on Gravy
[Hide Photo] Charlie on Gravy
Halloween weekend, climbing wavy gravy in a bunny suit.
[Hide Photo] Halloween weekend, climbing wavy gravy in a bunny suit.
Eddie leading up the gravy.
[Hide Photo] Eddie leading up the gravy.
Super belay techniques.
[Hide Photo] Super belay techniques.
leopard tights FTW
[Hide Photo] leopard tights FTW

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joe Leonhard
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Fun route, just be careful of the HUGE hollow flake on your left and some loose stuff on top. Feb 14, 2006
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
[Hide Comment] if you hit the massive flake to the left of the route while you are on the ground, you can make the entire wall sound like a bongo drum! Apr 23, 2006
Laurie Lambe
Cottonwood Heights, UT
[Hide Comment] I think this climb is harder than most people say it is. Maybe it's just my perception but... Imagine doing the roof on Incredible Hand Crack with blue Camalots ... Oct 21, 2006
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] This route is much easier if you stem to the crack out left while climbing the steep sections. Apr 13, 2007
JoshuaTreeRunner David
Los Angeles
[Hide Comment] Excellent hands. Led it but it was hard for me through the 2nd roof. Cool climb tho. Nov 26, 2007
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] This crack eats ropes very easily. Try to get your rope running in a straight line as much as possible. Place your cams selectively and use runners to avoid a zig-zag. Apr 30, 2009
Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
[Hide Comment] Definately give this a shot if (or, more appropriately, when) you go to Scarface. Great hands and a standout line for the creek. Jun 5, 2009
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] You can easily place a finger piece in the left crack above the second roof to keep the rope from pushing any pieces back in there. Nov 23, 2009
[Hide Comment] not quite the gimmie I was expecting on it. Both roofs were quite a grunt for me. the first one was on the thin side and the top was on the wide side. Not sure what Dr. Evil is smoking, the left finger crack is offset the wrong way to stem to. Pro, sure, maybe even a gastone, but stemming? not quite.

Also note that it IS possible (if a little sketch) to traverse from the top of Wavy Gravy to set up a line on Mantle Illness nextdoor (lots of fun!). Someone will have to follow and clean it for you, but it protects well and goes at about 9. Lots of loose stuff to kick off so make sure no one is below you. May 3, 2010
Sara Ann
Sunnyvale, CA
[Hide Comment] If you traverse right to Mantle Illness, it's extra sketch for your second, as s/he must downclimb onto a ledge with a pile of scree, above the pro, risking a pendulum fall... make sure whoever follows isn't too big a pansy and maybe wears a helmet. Mantle Illness is so worth it, tho. May 26, 2010

[Hide Comment] first, sorry for a lengthy dissertation that doesn't really relate to this route... just a quick suggestion for sara ann (and others who find themselves in this type of situation). this is a good candidate for using a lower-out method.

1) clip directly into the Gravy anchor with a sling/daisy.
2) have your partner give you a bunch of slack, like 50 feet for example.
3) tie into the '50 foot point' of the rope, using either a figure 8 on a bight with 2 lockers to your harness, or you can tie a huge doubled back figure 8, which is hard to explain but is better because it doesn't require biners.
4) make sure your partner has you on belay still, and that there isn't a huge amount of slack out.
5) untie from your END of the rope and pass it through your anchor on Gravy, tie knot in end if you want. Pass "25 feet" of it through the anchor point.
6) set yourself up as if you were going to rappel on your two little 25 foot strands.
7) unclip and start rapelling while traversing towards your belayer, who should be taking in the slack in his belay. this will basically keep you on belay on both sides, keep you from swinging, and help you get traversed to a point under your belayer.

with variations of this theme you can get yourself out of a lot of pickles. hope this helps. May 27, 2010
J Mo
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] Killer climb, super unique chunk of stone. Like everything here, great pro. Nowhere near as hard as IHC.... Mar 12, 2012
Jordan Hirro
[Hide Comment] So much fun. Great jams practically throughout. The only real crux I found was the wavy roof. A must do. Oct 2, 2013
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
[Hide Comment] book says #1s and #2s but I placed at least 3 #3 C4s. #4 can be used also at the very top on easy slab before the anchors Apr 8, 2014
Scott E
[Hide Comment] This stellar route protects well with a #3 for down low, 1 or 2 #1s and 5 #2s. Another #3 could be plugged up top. The roof sections are a lot harder if you choose to stay in jams and not pull into a layback. May 1, 2017
Chad Elliott
Las Vegas
[Hide Comment] Great route with slightly difficult pulls over the two roofs. This spot has the best shade area too, where you can climb when it's super sunny and still seek shade when you needed it. Nov 10, 2017
Ryan Silagy
[Hide Comment] Super classic May 9, 2019