Type: Trad, 280 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Chip Chace, Jeff Achey
Page Views: 2,307 total · 12/month
Shared By: Andy Johnson on Mar 22, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This route is located on the right side of the Sorcerer's Apprentice. It is very obvious. The route offers three pitches of sustained, exciting climbing. The rock on the route resembles varnish wingate, but actually has some seriously crumbly rock on every pitch. Pitches two and three are probably a little sandbagged, but hey, you be the judge. PITCH 1: There are two ways to start pitch one. You can either go straight up the obvious finger crack or climb the flake to the right. The rock is a little slick here and the protection can be tricky. Be sure to bring small stuff. Belay at the tied-off chockstone. PITCH 2: Head straight up the dihedral starting with the offwidth. This pitch is a bit of an enduro fest, but stick with it. The second pitch goes through every size from offwidth to tips. Belay in the "eye" where it is possible to walk behind the pillar. There are no fixed anchors. You can build an anchor with camalot sizes .75 through 3. PITCH 3: Climb out of the eye to the climber's right, over the belay and into one awesome dihedral. It starts off thin hands and then the crack tapers to nothing. It seems really hard at first, but once you realize that there are quite a few features on both faces the climbing becomes really fun. Just stem your way through the pitch and believe in the friction. Belay at fixed anchors at the top of the pillar. Bring small stuff. Wires may be helpful

DESCENT: Rappel down Sorcerer's Apprentice Left (The opposite side of the pillar from the route). Then either walk off down the ramp (very long), or do a double rope rappel from the fixed anchors on the ledge. We used two 60 meter ropes. I don't know if 50s will make it.


You could bring everything from RP's to Big Bros on this route, but all you will need is a set of TCU's and doubles in Camalot #'s .75 through 4. Two 60 meter ropes are nice, but you could get by with one.
This route is really good, and it makes a great afternoon outing around Moab. Considering it's closer to town than the climbing on Pot Ash you would think it got traveled more. We used a 60 meter rope and I led the first (original pitch I believe) out the sandy flake to the chock stone (exciting climbing with no gear above a blue TCU in sandy rock). My partner then was able to link the next 2 pitch's into one with a 60 meter rope for one long and awesome link up. The final stemming dihedral is incredible, unique, and well protected. Go do this thing. Apr 25, 2006
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
If you are not comfortable running it out with hard squeeze chimney-offwidth moves, you may want to bring a #4.5 and #5 camalot on this route for the second pitch. I only had up to a #4, and it was a little heady. Sep 3, 2006
e Dixon
Durango, Colorado
e Dixon   Durango, Colorado
Agreed that it's surprising how little this quality route gets done. Thought that all pitches offered fun climbing, especially P3...cool stemming. Didn't bring anything bigger than a #4 Camalot...that seemed fine, but a #5 could be comforting. Jun 11, 2011
Wade Plafcan
Moab, UT
Wade Plafcan   Moab, UT
Awesome route, very interesting climbing for the area especially the 3rd pitch. 2nd pitch felt more cruxy than 3rd to me. As of may, 2013 there are 2 perma nuts with webbing to include with your anchor on the top of 2nd pitch. Also rap webbing should be replaced very soon on top of 3rd pitch.

Anyone know why they didnt keep going to the rim on the 3rd pitch? the crack looks good to the top! May 15, 2013
Monster Mary
Breckenridge, CO
Monster Mary   Breckenridge, CO
This is an awesome route! Great variety and fun cruxes. And a super short approach (less than 15 minutes from the car). Needs someone to overhaul all the anchors though. Old pitons, old bolts, a bolt without a nut (or rather a nut made out of climbing tape is holding the hanger on), and lots of old faded cord. Oct 26, 2015
cdawg lion
cdawg lion   BeaUTAHfull

Status update on the anchors (10/28/16). They held... Nov 1, 2016
all over, mostly Utah
BigNobody   all over, mostly Utah
BOMBER ^^^^^^ Nov 2, 2016
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Pitch 1 was fun and well protected with a short OW section with no big gear needed. Belay anchor was a slung chockstone and fixed hex or use 4 and 5 Camelot.
Pitch 2 was hard right off belay with uber tight 5 camalot( got mine stuck for a bit) to thin hands roof, then another awkward OW section where 5 camalot more helpful. Lots of liebacking on this one. Use your small to medium gear wisely. Belay in the “eye” off 2 #2 Camelot’s or crawl through to big ledge and belay off bolts.
Pitch 3 climb out the eye to climbers left in super choss with bird crap everywhere to small ledge. Embark upwards in v groove with small flared sometimes non existent crack. Wires critical. Didn’t care for this pitch much. Would recommend skipping it and doing pitch 2 of sorcerers left instead.

Walkoff is non trivial. Expect some steep downclimbing with 2 5-6 foot downjumps to get past some vertical drops. Definitely adds to the adventure

A reasonably fun route but no classic Nov 5, 2017
Andrew Park
Grand Junction
Andrew Park   Grand Junction
-Gear: 0, .1, .2, .3, (2) .4, (3) .5, (2).75, #1, (2) #2, #3-6, slings sew it up pretty nicely
-Can use a 5 above the chockstone belay at top of pitch one to create a higher anchor
-#2 and .5 are great for top of pitch 2 anchor in the "eye"
-leave 4, 5, 6 at pitch 2 anchor (grab it on the rap down)
-.4 and #1 are great for summit anchor
-Decent: single rope rap from top, double rope rap to the ground (70 M) Oct 28, 2018