Avg: 2.7 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||Paul Ross Jeff Pheasant,(Var Leads) Layne Potter Oct 11 2001|
|Page Views:||13,837 total · 56/month|
|Shared By:||USBRIT Ross on Oct 10, 2001|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
The Road Not Taken III 5.10.
AS one reaches the Butte in front of the parking area the route takes a system of ramps on the east face. The 1st pitch takes a break in the lower wall, directly below the large spikey blocks midway on the upper ramp.
P1: Traverse right across a flake to a short hand crack to the rocky ledge and block belay 60'. Move belay about 300'left along the ledge to the start of the massive right-diagonal ramp. Double bolt belay.
P2: Follow ramp, at 20' 5.7 up wide crack, then easy to 5.6 step down to good ledge and 2 bolt anchor/rap 190'.
P3: Up through 5.8 squeeze chimney to belay behind large blocks 85'
P4: The great goolie basher crack, a superb and unusual pitch. Most of this 180' pitch is about 5.7 .the final 20' is a 5.10 lieback into a short off-width.
Descent: From the ledge just above the final belay, walk 300' left to rap anchors. It is essential that the first person down carries prussics or ascenders and knots the rope ends,as one does not touch rock until 40' below rap anchors. swing and get onto double bolts top of P3. or best walk to descent of Pearly Gates. (See new Desert Rock IV by Bjornstad)
First Ascent:_ Jeff Pheasant, Paul Ross, Layne Potter.. Oct 2001. To date there are about 9 multi-pitch new routes on this Butte and about 9 in the Tombstone Area half mile or so from the Lost World. Many are recorded in the new Guide book.A nice quiet area.