Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches
FA: Paul Ross Jeff Pheasant,(Var Leads) Layne Potter Oct 11 2001
Page Views: 13,837 total · 56/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Oct 10, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The Road Not Taken III 5.10.

AS one reaches the Butte in front of the parking area the route takes a system of ramps on the east face. The 1st pitch takes a break in the lower wall, directly below the large spikey blocks midway on the upper ramp.

P1: Traverse right across a flake to a short hand crack to the rocky ledge and block belay 60'. Move belay about 300'left along the ledge to the start of the massive right-diagonal ramp. Double bolt belay.

P2: Follow ramp, at 20' 5.7 up wide crack, then easy to 5.6 step down to good ledge and 2 bolt anchor/rap 190'.

P3: Up through 5.8 squeeze chimney to belay behind large blocks 85'

P4: The great goolie basher crack, a superb and unusual pitch. Most of this 180' pitch is about 5.7 .the final 20' is a 5.10 lieback into a short off-width.

Descent: From the ledge just above the final belay, walk 300' left to rap anchors. It is essential that the first person down carries prussics or ascenders and knots the rope ends,as one does not touch rock until 40' below rap anchors. swing and get onto double bolts top of P3. or best walk to descent of Pearly Gates. (See new Desert Rock IV by Bjornstad)

First Ascent:_ Jeff Pheasant, Paul Ross, Layne Potter.. Oct 2001. To date there are about 9 multi-pitch new routes on this Butte and about 9 in the Tombstone Area half mile or so from the Lost World. Many are recorded in the new Guide book.A nice quiet area.

Protection

Set of friends, best with extra #5#6. Two 60m ropes for rappel

Photos