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Routes in Lost World Butte

Birthday Gift, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C0 R
Choss Dispenser, The 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2
Entreating Entrance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gateway to the Lost World. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1
Golden Brown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
Howe/Ross - End of the World Crag T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C1
IF T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3-
Kripling Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Pearly Gates T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C1
Persistence Rules T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C1
Road Not Taken, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spartans at the Door T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Paul Ross Jeff Pheasant,(Var Leads) Layne Potter Oct 11 2001
Page Views: 10,548 total, 54/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Oct 10, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The Road Not Taken III 5.10.

AS one reaches the Butte in front of the parking area the route takes a system of ramps on the east face. The 1st pitch takes a break in the lower wall, directly below the large spikey blocks midway on the upper ramp.

P1: Traverse right across a flake to a short hand crack to the rocky ledge and block belay 60'. Move belay about 300'left along the ledge to the start of the massive right-diagonaling ramp. Double bolt belay.
P2: Follow ramp, at 20' 5.7 up wide crack, then easy to 5.6 step down to good ledge and 2 bolt anchor/rap 190'.
P3: Up through 5.8 squeeze chimney to belay behind large blocks 85'
P4: The great crack, a superb and unusual pitch. Most of this 180' pitch is about 5.7 .the final 20' is a 5.10 lieback into a short off-width.

Descent: From the ledge just above the final belay, walk 300' left to rap anchors. It is essential that the first person down carries prussics or ascenders and knots the rope ends,as one does not touch rock until 40' below rap anchors. swing and get onto double bolts top of P3. or best walk to descent of Pearly Gates. (See new Desert Rock IV by Bjornstad)

First Ascent:_ Jeff Pheasant, Paul Ross, Layne Potter.. Oct 2001. To date there are about 9 multi-pitch new routes on this Butte and about 9 in the Tombstone Area half mile or so from the Lost World. Many are recorded in the new Guide book.A nice quiet area.

Protection

Set of friends, best with extra #5#6. Two 60m ropes for rappel
Matt Glue
Boulder, CO
Matt Glue   Boulder, CO
Scary fun!

P1 is kinda loose but short and not bad. Ropeless walk over is easy and totally safe til the last few pro-less scree steps.
P2 is loose and heads-up for sure, for leader and follower. Bring a 5 or 6 for this one, otherwise small rack of cams.
P3 was fun and secure enough. One draw and a hand-sized cam are all the gear you get.
P4 is wide #5 or tight #6 (either one) all the way to the blocky cave, and #5 to wider than #6 at the stout finish. Recommend doubles in 5 and 6, leave one early on for your second to walk up, walk/leave the rest but save one or more #5's for the finish. Can also get in some finger and hand sizes for mental pro at the loose blocks.

We took the rap down Pearly Gates. 2x 60m barely made it to the ground, but make sure your ropes end up in separate grooves! Had a hell of a time pulling. Apr 18, 2017
I love Paul's comments! They make me want to climb more "clean" adventure routes! That what makes a climber a real climber. A little bit of climbing and a lot a bit of dirt. Mar 24, 2016
I wish we had read your comment, jpeters427! We had to bail after pitch 2 for fear of killing our dogs. We did our best to move the bigger boulders, but watch your footing if anything alive is below you. We hope to make it back, for that final pitch looks cherry. Nov 21, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
"...we rapped off at the first chains too keep from killing the dog" must be one of the weirdest comments on MP. Without the context it is hysterical. What an odd sport we all love.... Jul 16, 2014
BrentL
Logan, UT
 
BrentL   Logan, UT
 
Great route. Pitch 2 looks like a war zone but isn't too bad due to it being a traverse, although the last unprotected 30 feet make things interesting. Go light on rack, with the exception of big cams for pitch 4. First 100' only protectable with #5 C4s or bigger, then you get a couple smaller placements, then save a #5 for the last 15'. Cool crack. Dec 4, 2012
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Someone must be taking those loose rock up there ...thought we removed most !!Anyway next time bring a hard hat for your dog or like we do with two Jack Russells use harnesses and tie them up well out of the trundling area.Simple as that ... Oct 29, 2011
A friend and i went to climb this route, it would be an awesome route, but it needs a lot of work to clean it up. We brought a dog with us and we rapped off at the first chains too keep from killing the dog. Lots of loose rock don't climb with anything breathing below you, don't be afraid of throwing off loose microwave size rocks off instead of leaving it for the next party, which we were not able to do with the dog below us. Oct 25, 2011
Good Adventure route for sure. Frosty and I were having a good laugh over Paul's reply to Bryson's comments about the 3rd pitch. We had the pleasure of camping with Paul after we did this route and the bugga had no recollection of loose rock on the 3rd pitch. He is so use to loose rock that he probably never even thought of it. The 5.8 offwidth that Paul refers to is actually on the next pitch. Bryson is correct though as there is plenty of loose rock on the first ramp pitch, and although it really isn't bad getting across any of it, the final moves, climbing down and right to the anchors, are thought provoking to say the least. Your last 'decent' pro is about 40' back and left of you at that point and with the rope drag (it's almost a 60 m, rubble covered, ramp traverse pitch) it is a bit of a hairy, although easy, move. I missed the piece in Bryson's photo but I'm sure it is a mental piece at best. The Gouli Basher crack is unique and worthy, as is the summit. Good fun in a perverse way... Nov 5, 2007
Ben Folsom
  5.10c
Ben Folsom  
  5.10c
The weather can be great in the winter, or it can be bad. I spent the last couple winters climbing and establishing routes in the lost world butte area. I loved road not taken. We did that in fall of 2002 and it was a fantastic week out there. I loved the Gouli Basher Crack. Now I know what you mean. Jan 28, 2005
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Hi Bryson.. Well when you have been used to finding new unclimbed rock in the UK ,a line like TRNT stands out like a sore thumb. . If you want a few route finding problems try some of the very fun new climbs on the San Rafael Swell , Eastern Reef slabs, plus there is no nasty squeeze chimnies..Cheers Paul . Dec 9, 2004
Yeah, it was an adventure. How the heck did you guys find that line?? Dec 9, 2004
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Hi Bryson . Sorry about the dust in your socks . We are still puzzled as we had no such problems !! Maybe we think its just normal desert climbing... actually we are scruffy bugga's at the best of times ....Anyway glad you had fun... Cheers . Nov 11, 2004
I think Paul's comment was in regards to one that I posted that is gone now. I had commented that the 3rd Pitch (2nd if you don't count the walk across the large ledge as a pitch) was one of the nastiest pitches I have ever climbed, tons of loose dirt and rocks, I had to empty out my shoes they were so full of dirt after that pitch. Still a fun route just be ready for loose dirt climbing. Nov 10, 2004
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Pitch 3 . Sure you were on route ?? All we found was a typical sandstone 5.8 Offwidth...... No big deal !! May 11, 2004
The third pitch may be the worst climbing I have ever done, lots of dirt and loose blocks. Mar 31, 2004