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Routes in Texas Tower

East Face of Texas Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2
South Face T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Aid, 730 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Paul Ross Jeff Pheasent 11th/12th June 2002
Page Views: 4,446 total, 24/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Jun 10, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

We got into the canyon with little difficulty using a short wheel base Toyota,larger trucks have made it. There are only two short places near the entrance that are a bit tricky depending on the amount of water in the stream.From the campsite hike abot 20 mins then walk steeply out of wash to right side of tower to a large pine below a big chimney. From here scramble left for 60' along a sloping ledge to the start of the route. Bolt belay.

P1. Two bolts and a pin(in place) lead out of a V niche and over a roof, two more bolts then a bit of a run out to a bulge where cracks begin, which are followed to the anchors. 80' 5.8+ C2

P2. Steep cracks and grooves to an anchor in an open chimney. 120' 5.9 C1

P3. Up chimney to big ledge. 100' 5.9

P4. Two bolts to reach a crack and chimney system that cuts through the formidable final 350' of the tower. After a short soft crack section the rock improves. 100' 5.9 C2

P5. Follow widening cracks and grooves in good rock to where the chimney cuts through to the other side of the tower. 150' 5.10 C1

P6. Wriggle through the narrow chimney to single bolt belay at the start of the last chimney pitch of the 1987 Toula route. Follow this really nice pitch to large ledge just below the summit. 150' 5.8+

P7. A couple of boulder problem moves and then easy slab to the top. 30'

This route may go all free, pitches 1 and 4 being the main problem.

One can descend by the original descent, or after the second rap new anchors on the edge leads to a big ledge(rap bolts on the far edge)at the top of pitch 3 East Face. From here two raps to ground. F.A. Paul Ross. Jeff Pheasant. Var.Leads.

Protection

Three sets of friends/Metolius from #1 Metolius to Three #4 Friends, Three #5 Friends, Two #6 Friends. Set of stoppers. A total of 11 aid/pro bolts where placed on F.A....
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Yes after 14 years its about time. Aug 19, 2016
Adam Pecan
Moab, UT
Adam Pecan   Moab, UT
Looks like it now goes free @ 12aR
publications.americanalpine… Aug 18, 2016
Paul S
Fruita, CO
Paul S   Fruita, CO
It's funny (or maybe a little sad), we read Ben's information about getting off route and we ended up doing the same exact thing. In both instances though, we were able to traverse back on route with out setting up an intermediate anchor. Feb 19, 2012
Ben Kiessel  
 
We did this tower in the end of April and would recommend it if you were looking for some adventure. There are a few things I would like to say.
1st-We linked the first two pitches into one 200' pitch. the rope drag was not to bad and if i did the route again i would link them again.
2nd-On the real pitch 3 we got off route by climbing the crack in the back of the chimney when the route really climbs the crack on the left side before you go deep inside.
3rd-Some how we moved to far right on the real pitch 4 and got off route again. we acually found another chimney were you could walk through the tower and look down the other side. Try to stay on route it was not fun getting off route 2 pitches in a row.
4th-The last chimney is run out. one bolt and one piton in 150'. leave the rack with your belayer or atleast thin it out.
5th-Even though we got off route twice, we did the route in one day.
6th-Brad has our trip report on his website, it also has some really good pics.
piquaclimber.com/past/texas…
I hope this does not scare anyone away, the route is a good outing. May 8, 2006