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Unknown Left

5.9+, Trad, 135 ft (41 m),  Avg: 2 from 10 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Temple of Sinawava
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


AKA: Toilet Crack Left - To find this route park at the Temple of Sinawava and walk to the bathroom area. Behind the bathrooms and to the right 200 meters total is an obvious massive, left-facing dihedral. That is Tourist Crack (AKA La Tourista).

Behind the bathrooms and left perhaps 100 meters total is a set of two other cracks. The one on the left is a crack and dihedral with dark rock, described here. The one on the right is referred to in another description as Unknown.

Climb up the obvious crack system to a ledge about 70 or 80 feet up. The start is a little difficult to protect, but not difficult to climb.

The crux lieback move pulling over a bulge comes at a solid large TCU placement about 10 meters up. Finish on good jams to the ledge.

Traverse right on the ledge to reach a good fixed anchor, from which you can rap off. You cannot TR or hang-dog-follow off of this without hacking at your rope due to its position.


One set of stoppers + one set of cams from small TCU to 3" Desend with two ropes or down climb/ rap off tree on ledge.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Shumaker
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] This is a fun route and makes for a quick climb if you are short on time. The anchors are in poor shape and need some attention: the old piton looks decent but he bolt and hangar are slowly pulling out and the nut can be loosened by hand. The webbing needs to be replaced as well. The route doesn't get much sun in the morning in Nov. Watch out fort he cacti! Nov 18, 2006
[Hide Comment] Left Toilet Crack has at least two established pitches. My partner and I climbed the chimney/gash from the ledge after the dirty chimney to bulge into dihedral pitch,to a ledge on the right(can be seen in new guide book pics). Climbed one more short pitch to a single bolt anchor not much higher. Dec 31, 2009
Ray Hellinger
Gunnison, CO
[Hide Comment] The route description here, and the comments, makes me think people are not on Left Toilet Crack. Left Toilet crack starts at the same point as Right Toilet Crack (see that route for approach info). It starts as 4th class scrambling to the left of the large trees growing out of a chimney system. You will arrive at a ledge below a deep chimney. The guidebook says to build an anchor here, but you can just keep going and do it as one pitch. Enter the chimney with a finger crack on the left wall, and a hand crack deep in the chimney on the right wall. Climb up to the corner below the roof. Pull super fun moves out the roof to the left, then follow stellar twinn hand cracks for approximately 80ft. The whole climb, when done this way, is around 180ft. Anchor is 3 bolts equalized with webbing and a large screw link. Gear (these are BD cams): 1 x 4, 2 x 0.3-3, nuts. Ths route is WAY better than it looks from below and I highly recommend it. It's a cool variety of climbing. Apr 22, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] It is the wrong route, no doubt...
The question is who edited it to put the AKA: in there and make this the wrong route?!?!
I just described what I described and called it an unknown. Apr 23, 2015