All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Grand County > Arches NP > Bubo Tower

Bubo

Name: Bubo
Rating: 2.0

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R

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Bubo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

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Type:	Trad, 140 ft (42 m)
GPS:	38.6242, -109.59939
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	3,024 total · 10/month
Shared By:	Tony B on Nov 14, 2002
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions Details

Check Raptor closure status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…

Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Description

Get to the North Face of Bubo Tower from Balanced Rock as described on the "Rock Page." There is one feature on this face... a yawning chimney that splits it.

Climb up a soft slab for perhaps 10-20 feet, I don't recall exactly how high... and enter the chimney.

I slowly picked my way up this, first more or less squeezing, then with my back on one side and feet on the other, then finally in a near-splits, which was slow-going. Much to my surprise, my partner followed at great speed as he got to the top- with hands on one side and feet on the other- walking up that way. Of course, placing gear like this would be no fun.

The route was originally 3 pitches. Given the little amount of gear and shortness of the climb, doing it in a single pitch as we did seemed much better.

Rap from anchors on the top via 2 ropes (50M will do). A single 70M might get you down. The condition of the webbing on the anchors up top is unknown. It was total crap when I did the climb and I replaced them, but that has been 7 years of desert sun and wind atop a tower.

As always when doing towers, take some new red/brown webbing just in case.

Protection

Not much for pro. You can get a few large cams here and there, and a few smaller pieces in cracks in the side walls. The best plan is to take a light rack + a few big pieces and plan on running it out a little.