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Routes in Lower Buckhorn Wash

Echoes 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Flapjack Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovin' at the Beach T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Haagenschlong 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1
I'm Rick James, Bitch S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
James Tower AKA The Lightblub T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Jamison Engineering T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Life During Wartime 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ R
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1+
Short Stack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soup Kitchen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whale, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: James Garret 1990
Page Views: 5,663 total, 31/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Oct 17, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

James Tower is the knob located on the west side of Buckhorn Wash approximately 1 mile north of the river. There is a pullout on the west side of the road a little way past the tower. To breach the chinle hike up the wash (along the chinle) to the west of the pullout until an easy scramble is reached.The route begins on the north side of the tower in a handcrack and winds left around to the south side and a big ledge. The crack gets progressively larger as it curves around the tower. There is an optional belay with three good bolts at approximately 75'. The final pitch is a bolt ladder up the south face (10 or 11 clips). There is a whole slew of bolts at the top offering several descent options. With two ropes it is one rappel to the ground off the east side. With one rope it would be two or three raps.

Protection

Camalots 1-4 or 4.5, one set should suffice, two #3 would be useful. Long runners if you want to do it in two pitches.
Nicholas Spiropulos
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Nicholas Spiropulos   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Don't bring anything smaller than a #1. This climb takes primarily #2 and #3 cams. The #5 came in handy on the first pitch. Oct 2, 2017
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
This is one of my new favorite desert towers. aesthetic formation, killer hand crack, straightforward aiding, no crowds, all in one. I'd recommend linking pitch one and two to the bolt ladder. Be sure to use long runners for this. In addition, I wish I had two #2 Camalots instead of one. I used a #5 and a #4, and some may want two #4s. I think it is doable with only two big pieces, but three would add some security for the new 10 leader. Smallest I placed was a .75, but there is opportunities for smaller. #3 Camalot will fit in a chossy pocket at the top if you want to add some security to the bolt ladder. Other than that pro suggestions are accurate. Get after this! Mar 16, 2015
What a great route! The approach was super simple by following the wash up then picking your way through a small cliffband. This was my first aid route (excellent pro!) and I'd like to know if there are a bunch more out there like it that haven't made it into Proj? Hope so.

The 5.10 P1 was very protectable and pretty moderate for desert cracks. The aid was straight forward and the bolts/pins bomber. I never saw the summit register, but with four women sitting on the top of that tiny spire, you get the idea. Anchors were in good shape, too. Sep 19, 2007
Hi Brent,
Thankyou for submitting the fine pictures of The Lightbulb. I loved seeing them as I have no pictures of my time on the rock. I have gone back once to install that new anchor at top of pitch #1 and also to lessen the rope pull drag from the summit anchors. Is the final placement really a #3 Camalot? I remember placing a piton, I thought??? On the original ascent, I drilled all anchors by hand with no fixing and I was alone, hung over, and in a hurry. But, I have been accused of impatience before.Glad to hear you found the approach...I have heard of people having real epics getting to the tower...just hike up the wash to the north of the tower and look for a weakness in the rim wall which is now marked with plenty of cairns, I believe? shouldn't take more than 25-30 minutes for the approach hike these days with a light pack. Now the route can be climbed with one rope, two rappels, and with much more confidence inspiring anchors. My Huntington friend Layne Potter also installed a summit register which is always entertaining. It doesn't possess the same type of welcome relief as does the summit register on Quartermoon at Ibex, but I am happy to hear about so many people climbing this beautiful and unusual chunk of a tower with such a forgiving rating. I love the first crack pitch. It is really a moderately rated and wildly exposed outing for us gumbies.... out there for a good time! I think I want to go do it again!
James Jun 7, 2006
Definitely a classic summit, if a little off the beaten path! Kudo's to James for putting this up and NOT pulling everything on the bolt ladder after the FA! When I climbed it I found a slightly "less thuggish" but more "slackerish" option to the first pitch. It involved soloing a ~5.6 corner and then face climbing up slabs to the far-right of the tower and then a somewhat sketchy downclimb/upclimb on the tower formation itself to establish oneself at the start of the bolt ladder. It appeared to have been done several times before due to the worn footpath to my rope-up point. As of 3/06 all hardware on the bolt ladder and the anchor on the summit was in decent shape. A #3 camalot is helpful for the last move before belly-flopping onto the summit.

If you want to see pics and the trip report they're available at the following path:

desertratsanonymous.com/Roc… Mar 27, 2006