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Putterman's Poopshoot

5.8+ R, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 1 from 1 vote
FA: Dan Russell, Brian Shelton, Martin Douglas, Sonia Quiroga
Utah > Southeast Utah > Tusher Canyon > Neighbor Of Putterman
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

Putterman's Poopshoot climbs to the 'south summit' of the Neighbor of Putterman. It is named for the sandy hole through which it climbs. The climbing is not spectacular, but it does gain a summit via a unique route.

The route actually starts on the big ledge at half-height on the end of the cliff (the west end, facing the House of Putterman formation). There are two ways to access this ledge. Either climb Putterman's Big Toe (5.9) or it's sister crack, Glob Gleab (C1), on the south face. Both of these routes are described on this website.

However you reach the ledge, walk back into the obvious cave (the cave is actually a huge chimney). About 20 feet back into the 'cave', the walls pinch off. The climb starts here.

Chimney through the slot (5.8+). This is the Poopshoot. After about 15 feet, the chimney opens up. If you're facing INTO the deep chimney, the wall on your right continues up to overhanging choss, while the wall on your left continues up to slabby choss. Slabby choss is easier to climb.

Turn around so you're facing OUT of the chimney system. Stem between the walls and work your way about 15-20 feet forward, so that you're standing directly above your belayer. Climb the somewhat loose wall (5.5) to a short slot (5.8) which reaches the plateau of the 'south summit'.

You can set up a belay in a crack in the summit surface, using 2-4 inch cams.

Descent: There is no summit anchor. Simul-rap, using a 60m rope.

Protection

Bring a handful of 1-3 inch pieces, and a few bigger pieces (2-4 inches) for the belay.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

At the bottom of the Poopshoot.
[Hide Photo] At the bottom of the Poopshoot.
Easy chimneying high above the ground in the slot. It feels more like a canyoneering adventure than a rock climb.
[Hide Photo] Easy chimneying high above the ground in the slot. It feels more like a canyoneering adventure than a rock climb.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dan Russell
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] By the way, I gave it an _s_ rating because it_s a bit runout. Not terribly so, but if you did happen to slip while stemming above the chimney, a fall would result in some painful ping+ponging down the chimney. It_s easy, but a bit runout on loose rock. Oct 3, 2002
Mark Thomas
Broomfield, CO
[Hide Comment] I traversed into the cave and all the way to where it pops out on the opposite side. Fun cl. 4 scramble! No stemming up for me. Maybe next time... There was a single bolt at the other side, and a nice looking crack that reaches the chimney. I wonder what route that is? Oct 7, 2019